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Fit your Brummstadt screen to a Ford Ranger PX2 or PX3 (2015 to 2022)

Video, 24:15. Ten steps, each one also written out below.

In this video

  1. Intro
  2. Preparation
  3. Battery off
  4. Trim off
  5. Fascia and modules out
  6. Plugs
  7. CAN bus box
  8. Accessories
  9. First power-up
  10. Test before closing
  11. Closing up
  12. Done
Speed
Quality

Fit the Brummstadt screen to your PX2 or PX3 yourself, one step at a time, and test everything before the dash goes back together.

Time
About 24 minutes to watch. First time, allow about two hours for the fitting.
Have ready
The kit box and the tools from the Preparation chapter. The video names every part before you start.
Kits can look different
Your kit may look a little different from the one in the video. Go by the names, the plugs and the card in your box.
How to watch
Watch the video once, then start again and follow along.

Step by step

The same steps as the video. Each one plays from its own spot.

Preparation

Play from 1:09
  1. First check: you ordered small screen or SYNC by what's in your dash, not by the year, because both were built in the same years.
  2. Ranger imported from America? Check before you start. Look at the compliance plate in the door opening: on an Australian Ranger it says the car was made to comply with the Motor Vehicle Standards Act, with its build month. US Rangers are wired differently, and the Australian kit won't plug in.
  3. The easy test: before anything comes apart, hold the new frame against your dash and look at the red hazard button.
  4. Centred in its hole? Lovely. Missing it? Leave the dash whole: that frame's for the other dash, and pulling it apart now leaves a hole in your dash till the right one comes.
  5. Lay every part out on a towel first, so anything missing shows up now: screen, frame, harness, CAN box, aerials, leads, and the camera and mic if you ordered them.
  6. Towel on the passenger seat, blanket over the console, so a slipped tool lands on something soft.
  7. Draw the dash on paper and tape each screw where it came out, so each one goes back into its own hole.
  8. Tools: plastic trim tools, a Phillips screwdriver, a seven mil socket and extension, a spanner for the battery clamp, tape and cable ties; for a camera, a meter or test light and T-splice connectors.
  9. Why plastic? Metal scratches soft trim for good. And the radio side is all plug-in; nothing gets cut.
  10. Last, try the old system once: radio, wheel buttons, camera, fan, hazards, so you can compare at the end.

Battery off

Play from 3:28
  1. Battery next. Handbrake on, lever right back for room; an automatic only moves with the ignition on and your foot on the brake, so do it first, or it stays stuck in your way.
  2. Then ignition, lights and radio off, wait two minutes, and undo only the negative terminal, the one marked minus. Go by the mark, not the cable colour.
  3. That little box on the negative clamp is the battery sensor. Loosen the clamp nut, never the sensor bolt, which can damage the sensor, its plug and the post, and lift both off together.
  4. Tuck the clamp aside in a cloth. Second battery? Disconnect it too; a dark screen doesn't mean no power.

Trim off

Play from 4:39
  1. Trim is held by clips, and clips like a straight pull towards you. Twist it, and a tab snaps, and that panel rattles forever, like a tiny drummer.
  2. Driver's vent first: plastic tool in at the lower inner end of the chrome surround, and ease it out. Five clips.
  3. Passenger side: one long, slim panel with both passenger vents. Lever the lower edge and work along. Ten clips.
  4. A clip stayed in the dash? Push it back onto its panel, or that panel will rattle.
  5. Down low, unclip the side panels by the console. Behind them, two seven mil bolts hold the panel with the twelve volt sockets.
  6. Take them out, unplug its sockets straight back, then unclip the long thin strip under the screen. Push-button start? Unplug that too.

Fascia and modules out

Play from 5:47
  1. Now the fascia, the big piece with the hazard button and climate panel. SYNC dash: six screws, two at the top, two halfway down, two at the bottom.
  2. Small screen dash: five. Fascia stuck? There's a screw left. Look again rather than pull harder, because a forced corner cracks off for good.
  3. With your helper, ease it forward, unplug its two connectors, and lay it face up, or the little buttons fall out.
  4. Every plug: thumb on the latch, then pull the plug, never the wires. Some are hair-thin, with no slack to fix a break.
  5. SYNC cars: four screws free the screen and SYNC module. Unplug, lift out, and remember those screen plugs.
  6. Below, the silver radio module sits on two metal side brackets, two screws each side, and slides out towards you.
  7. Small screen cars: eight screws, and the display and radio come out together.
  8. The aerial plug has a locking tab: press it down, hold, and pull the plug body. Never the cable, or the thin wire inside breaks and reception goes weak.

Plugs

Play from 7:30
  1. Most likely it's the right one. The radio is split: screen up top, silver radio module below. Power and speakers come in behind the lower module, so the main harness plugs go there.
  2. But the screen plugs aren't spare. On a SYNC car, that big plug helps keep the climate display, wheel buttons, parking sensors and factory camera working; on a small screen car, the display plug is used too. Where your harness has a partner for one, it moves across.
  3. Click each car plug into its partner on the harness. Each harness plug has its own shape, like a kids' shape puzzle.
  4. Push till it clicks, then a gentle tug on the plug body. Half-latched drops out on the first corrugated road.
  5. Won't go in? Check the pair; never force it, never cut it. No partner yet? Set it aside for now.
  6. The car's aerial plug goes into the Brummstadt aerial lead, then the harness into the unit: power plug first, then the white plugs.
  7. Units vary from batch to batch. The connection card in your box, or the installation guide on our website, names every socket, so match plugs by name, not by where they sat in a video.
  8. Two USB leads with different jobs: four-pin for your phone, CarPlay and update sticks, six-pin for DAB plus or tyre sensors. They don't give the same power, so a power-hungry gadget gets its own lead, not a hub.
  9. A front camera has its own white socket on the loom, and the rear camera's picture comes in on the single yellow lead with two thin blue wires.
  10. That bundle of round plugs that looks spare? It isn't: the camera and microphone leads live there. Leave it in the bag, and they stay quiet.
  11. The unit's cooling fan plug goes into its partner on that bundle too, so it stays cool, even in summer.
  12. A car plug with no partner? The factory GPS, mic and Bluetooth plugs retire, because your unit has its own; tape and tuck them. Any other plug isn't spare, so never join it to something just because it fits.

CAN bus box

Play from 10:13
  1. This little box is the translator between your Ranger and the screen: the CAN box. Wheel buttons and car data, like the climate, go through it.
  2. That's the one we hear most, and it's easy. Screen and sound work without the box's data lead, but the buttons only wake up with it in.
  3. That short lead goes into its own small white socket on the unit. Follow it from the box and check your card, because some sockets look alike.
  4. Plug it in now, while the battery's still off, because plugging in live can blow a fuse. Lead in, and the buttons wake up.

Accessories

Play from 11:07
  1. The yellow lead with two blue wires goes in even without a camera: the blue wires are aerials for Bluetooth and Wi-Fi, so keep them off metal.
  2. Keeping your factory camera? Its plug goes into the yellow retention lead from your kit, and that goes into the unit's yellow video input.
  3. Fitting the Brummstadt rear camera? It goes on the tailgate by the number plate. Run its six metre lead along the car's own wiring, through a grommet, never over a sharp edge, tied as you go, with a slack loop at the hinge so it can't pinch.
  4. Power comes from the reverse light: red wire T-spliced onto its positive wire, black to bare metal. Check with a meter: twelve volts in reverse, none in park, never flashing with the indicator. On the blinker wire, the screen jumps to the camera every time you indicate.
  5. At the dash, the yellow plugs meet, and the camera's short red wire joins the brown pin three wire tagged Back, so the unit knows you're reversing.
  6. A front camera goes in the grille, into its own socket, with Double recording switched on. Tap here for our full camera film, with every setting and check.
  7. Now the microphone. The built-in one sits low, near the fan; the little external mic goes up near your head, so callers hear you, not the fan.
  8. It plugs into the lead marked MIC, behind the unit. Push it right home while the dash is open.
  9. Run the lead under the dash, up the windscreen pillar behind the rubber door seal, and under the roof lining's edge to beside the sun visor, close to your mouth. The pillar trim stays on: there's a curtain airbag behind it.
  10. Tie the lead to the car's wiring, never to anything airbag, then select External Mic in the settings; that's what sorted the calls for many of our customers. Tap here for our full microphone film.
  11. The GPS aerial goes under the plastic dash top, never on metal, because metal blocks the satellites. The factory GPS plug retires. Stack them Wi-Fi, then GPS, then four G.
  12. Run the four-pin USB lead, the phone one, into the glovebox, clear of the hinge, so you can reach it without opening the dash.
  13. Ordered DAB plus? Strip aerial on the passenger side of the windscreen, earth plate on bare metal, lead into the six-pin USB. Tap here for more on DAB.

First power-up

Play from 14:19
  1. Before anything goes back, let's wake it up: negative terminal on, nut snug, ignition on.
  2. Screen stays black? Battery off, and check the lower module plugs, the power plug and the CAN lead. A plug that hasn't quite clicked is the first suspect.
  3. Safety note: a hot plug, smoke or a burning smell means ignition off and battery off until that plug's checked. Left powered, it can melt its wires.
  4. The CAN box usually arrives set up. To check: My Car, Diagnosis, Car, then the name on your box's label, then Ford, then Ranger.
  5. Eight inch SYNC car? Climate on screen too: My Car, Settings, Other Setting, Function Select, and tick AC.
  6. Change the fan speed and a climate window pops up; if not, turn on the fan icon in Car Info. Small screen cars keep their knobs. Tap here for our climate film.
  7. Camera setting: in reverse, foot on the brake, hold your finger on the picture until a box pops up. Pick AHD ten-eighty P, twenty-five hertz for our camera, or CVBS NTSC for the factory one.
  8. One camera? Double recording stays off, or the screen says rear camera lost signals. And always tap Save, top right, or the change is lost.
  9. Picture back to front, like in a mirror? Car Settings, General, Reverse Mirror. Upside down? Turn the camera itself; no setting fixes that.
  10. Your phone: open Zed-Link, the app for CarPlay and Android Auto, and plug in, or pair over Bluetooth for wireless.
  11. When it all works, photograph each settings screen, so you can set it back after a reset or update.
  12. So keep the setup short, and do big downloads and updates with the engine running, on a drive or outdoors, but never in a closed garage. Or plug in a battery charger. Caught out? A charger or a jump start sorts it. Tap here for our update film.

Test before closing

Play from 17:26
  1. Try the touch screen, every speaker with balance and fade, and a radio station you know.
  2. Every wheel button and the dash knobs. A real call, both ways. And a whole voice command, not just the wake word.
  3. Foot on the brake, select reverse, and the camera comes up. Out of reverse, your normal screen's back.
  4. Indicators, left then right: the screen should stay put. If it jumps to a camera, there are two usual reasons.
  5. One: the red camera wire sits on the indicator wire, so move it to the reverse light. Two: a side-camera setting. No side cameras? In My Car, Settings, Fullview Sight, switch off Right 360 Camera Switch and the L and R steering switch.
  6. Hazards: lights flashing outside, and the button springs back by itself.
  7. Then the fan, the temperature, air to your face, feet and windscreen, and the demister.
  8. Doors and belts: the Ranger's chimes play through the speakers, and the door picture shows the right door. Wrong side? My Car, Door Window Settings, FDoor exchange.
  9. Ignition off and on again: your settings should still be there.
  10. Console USB ports: with a USB retention lead in your kit, they connect to one of the unit's USB leads. Without one, they retire, and the Brummstadt leads take over.
  11. Something not working? Battery off, and back through the plugs one by one; it's nearly always a plug or a setting. The Reset app and the RST button just restart the unit. Factory Reset, in Car Settings, wipes your settings, so it's never the first fix.

Closing up

Play from 19:47
  1. All working? Lovely. Ignition off, wait two minutes, battery off again, then close up, so nothing's live while leads move and screws go in.
  2. Then cable-tie the long leads together and to the car's wiring, and tie the CAN box down. Loose leads rattle, and in time an edge rubs through: power touches metal, a short, a blown fuse or worse. A few ties keep it quiet and safe.
  3. Your original climate panel stays in the dash and keeps working, just below the new Brummstadt frame. Every plug you took off goes back on where it was, with the twelve volt sockets and push-start; leave one off, and the heating, air con or hazards won't answer.
  4. Small screen car? The hazard switch sits on the backing plate from your kit; without it, the switch sits crooked and binds.
  5. Feed the harness in as the unit goes home, every lead clear of screw holes and sharp edges.
  6. Frame won't sit flat? Something's caught. Don't pull it down with the screws, they cut wires. Lift it, free the lead, and it sits flat.
  7. Before the screws, press the hazard button: click, spring back. Catches? Reseat the frame; forced, the button sticks and your hazards stay on.
  8. Now the screws, each from its spot on the map, by hand, with feel, holding the frame up. Snug, not tight: over-tighten, and the screw cuts into the plastic, the frame bends, and the hazard button can jam. Till it stops, a touch more, done.
  9. Trim back in reverse order, each clip lined up with its hole and pressed home with the flat of your hand, or it rattles.
  10. Battery on. One last round: hazards, climate, steering wheel buttons, sound, camera. Closing up can nudge a plug, so this round counts.
  11. The battery was off, so set the clock and reteach the driver's window: open it, hold its door switch up until it's shut plus two seconds, then check one tap up and one tap down.

Questions from customers

Questions Ranger owners asked us, answered in the video.

How long does the fitting take?

First time? Allow about two hours. Done it before? Thirty to forty-five minutes. Kettle on, no rush.

See it in the video at 0:31

Hang on, my new plugs don't fit the ones behind the screen. Wrong kit?

Most likely it's the right one. The radio is split: screen up top, silver radio module below. Power and speakers come in behind the lower module, so the main harness plugs go there.

But the screen plugs aren't spare. On a SYNC car, that big plug helps keep the climate display, wheel buttons, parking sensors and factory camera working; on a small screen car, the display plug is used too. Where your harness has a partner for one, it moves across.

See it in the video at 7:32

And if the screen works, but the steering wheel buttons do nothing?

That's the one we hear most, and it's easy. Screen and sound work without the box's data lead, but the buttons only wake up with it in.

That short lead goes into its own small white socket on the unit. Follow it from the box and check your card, because some sockets look alike.

See it in the video at 10:26

Does my factory reverse camera keep working?

Keeping your factory camera? Its plug goes into the yellow retention lead from your kit, and that goes into the unit's yellow video input.

Foot on the brake, select reverse, and the camera comes up. Out of reverse, your normal screen's back.

See it in the video at 11:20

It plays music! Can I close it up now?

Nearly. Ten minutes of testing first: a tweak takes seconds with the dash open, and an evening once it's closed.

Try the touch screen, every speaker with balance and fade, and a radio station you know.

See it in the video at 17:27

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The kit in this video

Ford Ranger PX MkII and MkIII 2015 to 2022 head unit kit

Ford Ranger PX MkII and MkIII 2015 to 2022 head unit kit

The kit in this video, with the 9 inch screen.

See the kit

More Ford Ranger videos

Full transcript
  1. Narrator: G'day. Today we fit a Brummstadt screen to your Ford Ranger PX2 or PX3, so it looks factory-fitted, and you'll have done it yourself.
  2. Narrator: Small four point two inch screen or eight inch SYNC, this film covers both.
  3. Narrator: Everything here comes from real Ranger installs, ours, our installers' and owners', so you get the time-saving tricks and know where to slow down.
  4. Narrator: First time? Allow about two hours. Done it before? Thirty to forty-five minutes. Kettle on, no rush.
  5. Narrator: Watch once right to the end, hands in your pockets, because the end has extra tips. Then do it with me, pausing whenever you like.
  6. Narrator: The plan: battery off, trim and old radio out, plug in the harness and extras, set up, test, close up.
  7. Narrator: And one rule all day: feel, not force. If something won't move, there's a reason.
  8. Narrator: First check: you ordered small screen or SYNC by what's in your dash, not by the year, because both were built in the same years.
  9. Narrator: Ranger imported from America? Check before you start. Look at the compliance plate in the door opening: on an Australian Ranger it says the car was made to comply with the Motor Vehicle Standards Act, with its build month. US Rangers are wired differently, and the Australian kit won't plug in.
  10. Narrator: The easy test: before anything comes apart, hold the new frame against your dash and look at the red hazard button.
  11. Narrator: Centred in its hole? Lovely. Missing it? Leave the dash whole: that frame's for the other dash, and pulling it apart now leaves a hole in your dash till the right one comes.
  12. Narrator: Lay every part out on a towel first, so anything missing shows up now: screen, frame, harness, CAN box, aerials, leads, and the camera and mic if you ordered them.
  13. Narrator: Towel on the passenger seat, blanket over the console, so a slipped tool lands on something soft.
  14. Narrator: Draw the dash on paper and tape each screw where it came out, so each one goes back into its own hole.
  15. Narrator: Photograph every plug before unplugging it. Good light, a helper for the big pieces, coffee well away.
  16. Narrator: Tools: plastic trim tools, a Phillips screwdriver, a seven mil socket and extension, a spanner for the battery clamp, tape and cable ties; for a camera, a meter or test light and T-splice connectors.
  17. Narrator: Why plastic? Metal scratches soft trim for good. And the radio side is all plug-in; nothing gets cut.
  18. Narrator: Last, try the old system once: radio, wheel buttons, camera, fan, hazards, so you can compare at the end.
  19. Narrator: Battery next. Handbrake on, lever right back for room; an automatic only moves with the ignition on and your foot on the brake, so do it first, or it stays stuck in your way.
  20. Narrator: Then ignition, lights and radio off, wait two minutes, and undo only the negative terminal, the one marked minus. Go by the mark, not the cable colour.
  21. Narrator: That little box on the negative clamp is the battery sensor. Loosen the clamp nut, never the sensor bolt, which can damage the sensor, its plug and the post, and lift both off together.
  22. Narrator: Tuck the clamp aside in a cloth. Second battery? Disconnect it too; a dark screen doesn't mean no power.
  23. Viewer: Do I really have to? It's only the radio.
  24. Narrator: Fair question. Battery on, one bare pin touching metal can blow a fuse or damage the harness. Two minutes with a spanner buys a relaxed afternoon.
  25. Narrator: Trim is held by clips, and clips like a straight pull towards you. Twist it, and a tab snaps, and that panel rattles forever, like a tiny drummer.
  26. Narrator: Driver's vent first: plastic tool in at the lower inner end of the chrome surround, and ease it out. Five clips.
  27. Narrator: Passenger side: one long, slim panel with both passenger vents. Lever the lower edge and work along. Ten clips.
  28. Narrator: A clip stayed in the dash? Push it back onto its panel, or that panel will rattle.
  29. Narrator: Down low, unclip the side panels by the console. Behind them, two seven mil bolts hold the panel with the twelve volt sockets.
  30. Narrator: Take them out, unplug its sockets straight back, then unclip the long thin strip under the screen. Push-button start? Unplug that too.
  31. Narrator: Now the fascia, the big piece with the hazard button and climate panel. SYNC dash: six screws, two at the top, two halfway down, two at the bottom.
  32. Narrator: Small screen dash: five. Fascia stuck? There's a screw left. Look again rather than pull harder, because a forced corner cracks off for good.
  33. Narrator: Every screw straight onto your map. One that slips down behind the dash is an evening's fishing trip.
  34. Narrator: With your helper, ease it forward, unplug its two connectors, and lay it face up, or the little buttons fall out.
  35. Narrator: Every plug: thumb on the latch, then pull the plug, never the wires. Some are hair-thin, with no slack to fix a break.
  36. Narrator: SYNC cars: four screws free the screen and SYNC module. Unplug, lift out, and remember those screen plugs.
  37. Narrator: Below, the silver radio module sits on two metal side brackets, two screws each side, and slides out towards you.
  38. Narrator: Small screen cars: eight screws, and the display and radio come out together.
  39. Narrator: The aerial plug has a locking tab: press it down, hold, and pull the plug body. Never the cable, or the thin wire inside breaks and reception goes weak.
  40. Viewer: Hang on, my new plugs don't fit the ones behind the screen. Wrong kit?
  41. Narrator: Most likely it's the right one. The radio is split: screen up top, silver radio module below. Power and speakers come in behind the lower module, so the main harness plugs go there.
  42. Narrator: But the screen plugs aren't spare. On a SYNC car, that big plug helps keep the climate display, wheel buttons, parking sensors and factory camera working; on a small screen car, the display plug is used too. Where your harness has a partner for one, it moves across.
  43. Narrator: Click each car plug into its partner on the harness. Each harness plug has its own shape, like a kids' shape puzzle.
  44. Narrator: Push till it clicks, then a gentle tug on the plug body. Half-latched drops out on the first corrugated road.
  45. Narrator: Won't go in? Check the pair; never force it, never cut it. No partner yet? Set it aside for now.
  46. Narrator: The car's aerial plug goes into the Brummstadt aerial lead, then the harness into the unit: power plug first, then the white plugs.
  47. Narrator: Units vary from batch to batch. The connection card in your box, or the installation guide on our website, names every socket, so match plugs by name, not by where they sat in a video.
  48. Narrator: Two USB leads with different jobs: four-pin for your phone, CarPlay and update sticks, six-pin for DAB plus or tyre sensors. They don't give the same power, so a power-hungry gadget gets its own lead, not a hub.
  49. Narrator: A front camera has its own white socket on the loom, and the rear camera's picture comes in on the single yellow lead with two thin blue wires.
  50. Narrator: That bundle of round plugs that looks spare? It isn't: the camera and microphone leads live there. Leave it in the bag, and they stay quiet.
  51. Narrator: The unit's cooling fan plug goes into its partner on that bundle too, so it stays cool, even in summer.
  52. Narrator: A car plug with no partner? The factory GPS, mic and Bluetooth plugs retire, because your unit has its own; tape and tuck them. Any other plug isn't spare, so never join it to something just because it fits.
  53. Narrator: This little box is the translator between your Ranger and the screen: the CAN box. Wheel buttons and car data, like the climate, go through it.
  54. Viewer: And if the screen works, but the steering wheel buttons do nothing?
  55. Narrator: That's the one we hear most, and it's easy. Screen and sound work without the box's data lead, but the buttons only wake up with it in.
  56. Narrator: That short lead goes into its own small white socket on the unit. Follow it from the box and check your card, because some sockets look alike.
  57. Narrator: Plug it in now, while the battery's still off, because plugging in live can blow a fuse. Lead in, and the buttons wake up.
  58. Narrator: The yellow lead with two blue wires goes in even without a camera: the blue wires are aerials for Bluetooth and Wi-Fi, so keep them off metal.
  59. Narrator: Keeping your factory camera? Its plug goes into the yellow retention lead from your kit, and that goes into the unit's yellow video input.
  60. Narrator: Fitting the Brummstadt rear camera? It goes on the tailgate by the number plate. Run its six metre lead along the car's own wiring, through a grommet, never over a sharp edge, tied as you go, with a slack loop at the hinge so it can't pinch.
  61. Narrator: Power comes from the reverse light: red wire T-spliced onto its positive wire, black to bare metal. Check with a meter: twelve volts in reverse, none in park, never flashing with the indicator. On the blinker wire, the screen jumps to the camera every time you indicate.
  62. Narrator: At the dash, the yellow plugs meet, and the camera's short red wire joins the brown pin three wire tagged Back, so the unit knows you're reversing.
  63. Narrator: A front camera goes in the grille, into its own socket, with Double recording switched on. Tap here for our full camera film, with every setting and check.
  64. Narrator: Now the microphone. The built-in one sits low, near the fan; the little external mic goes up near your head, so callers hear you, not the fan.
  65. Narrator: It plugs into the lead marked MIC, behind the unit. Push it right home while the dash is open.
  66. Narrator: Run the lead under the dash, up the windscreen pillar behind the rubber door seal, and under the roof lining's edge to beside the sun visor, close to your mouth. The pillar trim stays on: there's a curtain airbag behind it.
  67. Narrator: Tie the lead to the car's wiring, never to anything airbag, then select External Mic in the settings; that's what sorted the calls for many of our customers. Tap here for our full microphone film.
  68. Narrator: The GPS aerial goes under the plastic dash top, never on metal, because metal blocks the satellites. The factory GPS plug retires. Stack them Wi-Fi, then GPS, then four G.
  69. Narrator: Run the four-pin USB lead, the phone one, into the glovebox, clear of the hinge, so you can reach it without opening the dash.
  70. Narrator: Use a data cable, not a charge-only one, or CarPlay won't start. Phone charging but no CarPlay? Try another cable first. Tap here for our phone connection film.
  71. Narrator: Ordered DAB plus? Strip aerial on the passenger side of the windscreen, earth plate on bare metal, lead into the six-pin USB. Tap here for more on DAB.
  72. Narrator: Before anything goes back, let's wake it up: negative terminal on, nut snug, ignition on.
  73. Narrator: Screen stays black? Battery off, and check the lower module plugs, the power plug and the CAN lead. A plug that hasn't quite clicked is the first suspect.
  74. Narrator: Safety note: a hot plug, smoke or a burning smell means ignition off and battery off until that plug's checked. Left powered, it can melt its wires.
  75. Narrator: The CAN box usually arrives set up. To check: My Car, Diagnosis, Car, then the name on your box's label, then Ford, then Ranger.
  76. Narrator: That label is your source. A forum's or a mate's settings can belong to another box, and then buttons do odd things. Single buttons can be remapped in My Car.
  77. Narrator: Eight inch SYNC car? Climate on screen too: My Car, Settings, Other Setting, Function Select, and tick AC.
  78. Narrator: Change the fan speed and a climate window pops up; if not, turn on the fan icon in Car Info. Small screen cars keep their knobs. Tap here for our climate film.
  79. Narrator: Camera setting: in reverse, foot on the brake, hold your finger on the picture until a box pops up. Pick AHD ten-eighty P, twenty-five hertz for our camera, or CVBS NTSC for the factory one.
  80. Narrator: One camera? Double recording stays off, or the screen says rear camera lost signals. And always tap Save, top right, or the change is lost.
  81. Narrator: Picture back to front, like in a mirror? Car Settings, General, Reverse Mirror. Upside down? Turn the camera itself; no setting fixes that.
  82. Narrator: Your phone: open Zed-Link, the app for CarPlay and Android Auto, and plug in, or pair over Bluetooth for wireless.
  83. Narrator: When it all works, photograph each settings screen, so you can set it back after a reset or update.
  84. Narrator: With the engine off, the unit runs on the battery alone. One owner downloaded offline maps for hours in the driveway, and the Ranger wouldn't start.
  85. Narrator: So keep the setup short, and do big downloads and updates with the engine running, on a drive or outdoors, but never in a closed garage. Or plug in a battery charger. Caught out? A charger or a jump start sorts it. Tap here for our update film.
  86. Viewer: It plays music! Can I close it up now?
  87. Narrator: Nearly. Ten minutes of testing first: a tweak takes seconds with the dash open, and an evening once it's closed.
  88. Narrator: Try the touch screen, every speaker with balance and fade, and a radio station you know.
  89. Narrator: Every wheel button and the dash knobs. A real call, both ways. And a whole voice command, not just the wake word.
  90. Narrator: Foot on the brake, select reverse, and the camera comes up. Out of reverse, your normal screen's back.
  91. Narrator: Indicators, left then right: the screen should stay put. If it jumps to a camera, there are two usual reasons.
  92. Narrator: One: the red camera wire sits on the indicator wire, so move it to the reverse light. Two: a side-camera setting. No side cameras? In My Car, Settings, Fullview Sight, switch off Right 360 Camera Switch and the L and R steering switch.
  93. Narrator: Hazards: lights flashing outside, and the button springs back by itself.
  94. Narrator: Then the fan, the temperature, air to your face, feet and windscreen, and the demister.
  95. Narrator: Doors and belts: the Ranger's chimes play through the speakers, and the door picture shows the right door. Wrong side? My Car, Door Window Settings, FDoor exchange.
  96. Narrator: Ignition off and on again: your settings should still be there.
  97. Narrator: Console USB ports: with a USB retention lead in your kit, they connect to one of the unit's USB leads. Without one, they retire, and the Brummstadt leads take over.
  98. Narrator: Something not working? Battery off, and back through the plugs one by one; it's nearly always a plug or a setting. The Reset app and the RST button just restart the unit. Factory Reset, in Car Settings, wipes your settings, so it's never the first fix.
  99. Narrator: All working? Lovely. Ignition off, wait two minutes, battery off again, then close up, so nothing's live while leads move and screws go in.
  100. Narrator: Then cable-tie the long leads together and to the car's wiring, and tie the CAN box down. Loose leads rattle, and in time an edge rubs through: power touches metal, a short, a blown fuse or worse. A few ties keep it quiet and safe.
  101. Narrator: Tape loose plug ends and the retired factory plugs, so nothing dangles. No tiny drummers.
  102. Narrator: Your original climate panel stays in the dash and keeps working, just below the new Brummstadt frame. Every plug you took off goes back on where it was, with the twelve volt sockets and push-start; leave one off, and the heating, air con or hazards won't answer.
  103. Narrator: Small screen car? The hazard switch sits on the backing plate from your kit; without it, the switch sits crooked and binds.
  104. Narrator: Feed the harness in as the unit goes home, every lead clear of screw holes and sharp edges.
  105. Narrator: Frame won't sit flat? Something's caught. Don't pull it down with the screws, they cut wires. Lift it, free the lead, and it sits flat.
  106. Narrator: Before the screws, press the hazard button: click, spring back. Catches? Reseat the frame; forced, the button sticks and your hazards stay on.
  107. Narrator: Now the screws, each from its spot on the map, by hand, with feel, holding the frame up. Snug, not tight: over-tighten, and the screw cuts into the plastic, the frame bends, and the hazard button can jam. Till it stops, a touch more, done.
  108. Narrator: Trim back in reverse order, each clip lined up with its hole and pressed home with the flat of your hand, or it rattles.
  109. Narrator: Battery on. One last round: hazards, climate, steering wheel buttons, sound, camera. Closing up can nudge a plug, so this round counts.
  110. Narrator: The battery was off, so set the clock and reteach the driver's window: open it, hold its door switch up until it's shut plus two seconds, then check one tap up and one tap down.
  111. Narrator: That's it. You've fitted a Brummstadt screen to your Ranger, yourself. The kettle's cold, but you've earned a fresh cup.
  112. Narrator: Everything here we learned from our installs, our installers and many Ranger owners. Every story made this film better.
  113. Narrator: Extra tip: after the battery's been off, an automatic may shift a little firmly while the engine computer relearns; that's normal. And keep your card and settings photos in the glovebox.
  114. Narrator: Still got a question, or an idea for your Ranger? Have a yarn with us at Brummstadt, any time; we work with these units every day.
  115. Narrator: We want every owner to get it right first go, which is why our films go this deep. Spot something missing that would help the next person? Leave us a comment wherever you're watching; we read every one and improve the guides with it. You're with the experts, and you're part of it.
  116. Narrator: Now, a small favour. Before you bought, you probably read a few reviews; somebody's five stars helped you decide.
  117. Narrator: Still deciding? Good on you, you'll love it. Just fitted it, and it saved you a support message and an afternoon? Or someone at Brummstadt helped you along? Then you're probably thinking: they've earned their five stars. Name your helper too; they'll be chuffed.
  118. Narrator: It's one click on the review button right here, quicker than talking one stubborn clip back into its hole, and it tells the next Ranger owner they're in good hands. Enjoy the drive.

If you have still got a question about your Ranger, ask us at Brummstadt. We sell these kits and work with them every day.