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Fit the Brummstadt 12.1 inch screen to a Ford Ranger PX2 or PX3 (2015 to 2022)

Video, 30:14. 11 steps, each one also written out below.

In this video

Speed

Quality

Fit the 12.1 inch Brummstadt screen to your PX2 or PX3 yourself, move your own climate board across, and test everything before the dash goes back together.

Time: About 30 minutes to watch. First time, plan on two to three hours with the board move.
Have ready: The kit box and the tools from the Preparation chapter. The video names every part before you start.
Kits can look different: Your kit may look a little different from the one in the video. Go by the names, the plugs and the card in your box.
How to watch: Watch the video once, then start again and follow along.

Step by step

The same steps as the video. Each one plays from its own spot.

Preparation

First check: you ordered the frame for your dash. The big eight inch touchscreen is the SYNC option; the small screen with buttons around it is the four point two. Go by what's in your dash, not the year, because both were built in the same years.
Ranger imported from America? Check before you start. Look at the compliance plate in the door opening: on an Australian Ranger it says the car was made to comply with the Motor Vehicle Standards Act, with its build month. US Rangers are wired differently, and the Australian kit won't plug in.
Lay every part out on a towel, so anything missing shows up now: the screen in its frame, the harness, the CAN box, the aerials, the hazard adapter, and the camera and mic if you ordered them.
Two leads in the box surprise people. One is tagged Double Flash Line: that's your hazard light adapter, and you'll need it. The other is tagged Everest audio cable: that one's made for the Ford Everest, so it stays in the box.
Now turn the new Brummstadt screen over. The top half is the unit itself. The bottom half is a bare silver plate with a few empty windows. That's not a missing part. That's the spot waiting for your Ranger's board.
Towel on the passenger seat, blanket over the console, so a slipped tool lands on something soft.
Draw the dash on paper and tape each screw where it came out. Today there's one more group: the screws from the back of the old dash panel. Give them their own cup.
Photograph every plug before you unplug it. And the plugs on the old dash panel, take them twice, from the side, because those go back exactly the same way round later.
Tools: plastic trim tools, a Phillips screwdriver and a small one for the board, a seven mil socket and extension, a spanner for the battery clamp, tape and cable ties; for a camera, a meter or test light and T-splice connectors.
Why plastic? Metal scratches soft trim for good. And the radio side is all plug-in; nothing gets cut.
Last, try the old system once: radio, wheel buttons, camera, hazards, and the air con, AUTO, both temperatures, the fan and A/C. Snap a photo of the climate settings, so you can compare at the end.

Battery off

Battery next. Handbrake on, lever right back for room; an automatic only moves with the ignition on and your foot on the brake, so do it first, or it stays stuck in your way.
Then ignition, lights and radio off, wait two minutes, and undo only the negative terminal, the one marked minus. Go by the mark, not the cable colour.
That little box on the negative clamp is the battery sensor. Loosen the clamp nut, never the sensor bolt, which can damage the sensor, its plug and the post, and lift both off together.
Tuck the clamp aside in a cloth. Second battery? Disconnect it too; a dark screen doesn't mean no power.

Trim off

Trim is held by clips, and clips like a straight pull towards you. Twist it, and a tab snaps, and that panel rattles forever, like a tiny drummer.
Driver's vent first: plastic tool in at the lower inner end of the chrome surround, and ease it out. Five clips.
Passenger side: one long, slim panel with both passenger vents. Lever the lower edge and work along. Ten clips.
A clip stayed in the dash? Push it back onto its panel, or that panel will rattle.
Down low, unclip the side panels by the console. Behind them, two seven mil bolts hold the panel with the twelve volt sockets.
Take them out, unplug its sockets straight back, then unclip the long thin strip under the screen. Push-button start? Unplug that too.

Fascia and old radio out

Now the centre panel, the big piece with the hazard button and the climate controls. On the SYNC dash it's held by six screws: two at the top, two halfway down, two at the bottom.
Small screen dash: five. Panel stuck? There's a screw left. Look again rather than pull harder, because a forced corner cracks off for good.
With your helper, ease it forward. Photograph each plug on its back, unplug them, and lay the panel face up on the towel, or the little buttons fall out. Treat it kindly: its board is coming with us.
Every plug: thumb on the latch, then pull the plug, never the wires. Some are hair-thin, with no slack to fix a break.
SYNC cars: four screws free the screen and SYNC module. Unplug, lift out, and remember those screen plugs.
Below, the silver radio module sits on two metal side brackets, two screws each side, and slides out towards you.
Small screen cars: eight screws, and the display and radio come out together.
The aerial plug has a locking tab: press it down, hold, and pull the plug body. Never the cable, or the thin wire inside breaks and reception goes weak.

Your Ranger's board moves across

Not with this kit. The new frame takes its place. What we keep is what's inside it: the green circuit board that runs your climate and your hazards.
Why your own board? It already knows your Ranger. Moved across, it keeps your climate talking to the car exactly as it did before.
Turn the panel over on the towel. Undo the screws holding the board, every one into its cup, and look again before you lift: one forgotten screw, and the board can crack when you pull.
Lift it by its edges, never by the parts on it, and keep it flat. A cracked board or a bent pin means no climate and no hazards, and that's not a part you'll find at the servo.
Now the new screen, face down on the towel. Lay your board on the Brummstadt silver plate so its sockets line up with the windows, and its screw holes sit over the plate's.
Screws in by hand: snug, not tight. Over-tighten, and the screw strips its thread or the board cracks. Turn till it stops, a touch more, done.
Check it: the board sits flat, nothing rattles, and every socket shows through its window. That's the step that sounds hardest, done.
Keep the empty panel in a box in the shed. It won't go back in with this kit, but it's yours, and if you ever go back to the factory radio, it's where the board goes home.

Plugs

Play from 10:58

Most likely it's the right one. The radio is split: screen up top, silver radio module below. Power and speakers come in behind the lower module, so the main harness plugs go there.
The big grey plug with the thick bundle of coloured wires is the main power and speaker plug. Its partner is the car plug that fed that lower silver module, not the screen. One owner had a dark screen until his grey plug went home there.
But the screen plugs aren't spare. On a SYNC car, that big plug helps keep the climate display, wheel buttons, parking sensors and factory camera working; on a small screen car, the display plug is used too. Where your harness has a partner for one, it moves across.
Click each car plug into its partner on the harness. Each harness plug has its own shape, like a kids' shape puzzle.
Push till it clicks, then a gentle tug on the plug body. Half-latched drops out on the first corrugated road.
And never push loose wire ends into a car plug just to try something. A bare wire in the wrong pin can short. Plugs go into plugs, and that's it.
Now the climate plugs. Every plug that came off your old dash panel goes back to the board, through its window, each to the socket it came from; your photos tell you which. One of them goes through the hazard adapter, and that's coming up next.
They only go one way round. Line up the little key with its slot, then push straight. Turned around or forced, the pins bend and the climate stays dead. The right way, it slides in and clicks.
Then the hazard adapter, the Double Flash Line. One big plug takes the car plug of the same shape from your old panel, the other goes onto the board, and its small red and black lead clicks into the back of the unit. Leave it out, and your hazard button does nothing.
A socket on the plate with no pins in it? That's just a window waiting for the board. With the board fitted, the pins are right there.
Won't go in? Check the pair; never force it, never cut it. No partner yet? Set it aside for now.
Aerials next. The car's radio aerial plugs into the Brummstadt aerial lead, and the screw-on aerials go onto the ports on the back of the unit: GPS, and Wi-Fi with four G. Each port has its name beside it, so match the names.
Units vary from batch to batch. The connection card in your box, or the installation guide on our website, names every socket, so match plugs by name, not by where they sat in a video.
Two USB leads with different jobs. Your card says which one is for the phone: on some batches it's the four-pin, on others the six-pin, so go by your card. And wireless CarPlay and Android Auto don't need a cable at all.
Using four G? Find the SIM slot on your unit and put the SIM in now. Once the unit's in the dash, the back is out of reach.
A car plug with no partner? The factory GPS, mic and Bluetooth plugs retire, because your unit has its own; tape and tuck them. Any other plug isn't spare, so never join it to something just because it fits.

CAN bus box

Play from 14:58

This little box is the translator between your Ranger and the screen: the CAN box. Wheel buttons and car data, like the climate, go through it.
That's the one we hear most, and it's easy. Screen and sound work without the box's data lead, but the buttons only wake up with it in.
That short lead goes into its own small white socket on the unit. Follow it from the box and check your card, because some sockets look alike.
Plug it in now, while the battery's still off, because plugging in live can blow a fuse. Lead in, and the buttons wake up.

Accessories

Play from 15:49

The yellow lead with two blue wires goes in even without a camera: the blue wires are aerials for Bluetooth and Wi-Fi, so keep them off metal.
Keeping your factory camera? Its plug goes into the yellow retention lead from your kit, and that goes into the unit's yellow video input.
Fitting the Brummstadt rear camera? It goes on the tailgate by the number plate. Run its six metre lead along the car's own wiring, through a grommet, never over a sharp edge, tied as you go, with a slack loop at the hinge so it can't pinch.
Power comes from the reverse light: red wire T-spliced onto its positive wire, black to bare metal. Check with a meter: twelve volts in reverse, none in park, never flashing with the indicator. On the blinker wire, the screen jumps to the camera every time you indicate.
At the dash, the yellow plugs meet, and the camera's short red wire joins the brown pin three wire tagged Back, so the unit knows you're reversing.
Ordered the front and rear camera set? Its lead ends in a small white plug that clicks into its own white socket on the back of the unit; your card shows which one. It only goes in one way, so line it up and never force it.
A front camera goes in the grille, into its own socket, with Double recording switched on. Tap here for our full camera film, with every setting and check.
Now the microphone. In the box you may find two little clip-on mics; one is plenty. The built-in mic sits low in the dash near the fan, so callers hear the fan more than you. The clip-on mic goes up near your head.
It plugs into the lead marked MIC, on the bundle with the red and white plugs behind the unit. Push it right home while the dash is open.
Run the lead under the dash, up the windscreen pillar behind the rubber door seal, and under the roof lining's edge to beside the sun visor, close to your mouth. The pillar trim stays on: there's a curtain airbag behind it.
Tie the lead to the car's wiring, never to anything airbag, then select External Mic in the settings; that's what sorted the calls for many of our customers. Tap here for our full microphone film.
The GPS aerial goes under the plastic dash top, never on metal, because metal blocks the satellites. The factory GPS plug retires. Keep the Wi-Fi and four G aerial nearby, under plastic too.
Run the phone USB lead, the one your card names, into the glovebox, clear of the hinge, so you can reach it without opening the dash.
Ordered DAB plus? Strip aerial on the passenger side of the windscreen, earth plate on bare metal, lead into the USB lead your card names for it. Tap here for more on DAB.

First power-up

Play from 19:24

Before anything goes back, let's wake it up: negative terminal on, nut snug, ignition on.
Screen stays dark? Battery off, and check the grey power plug down at the lower module first; that's the one our twelve inch owners find loose most. Then the other lower plugs and the CAN lead.
Safety note: a hot plug, smoke or a burning smell means ignition off and battery off until that plug's checked. Left powered, it can melt its wires.
A few settings live in My Car. That's an app on your Brummstadt screen itself, with a little car on its icon, not an app on your phone.
The CAN box usually arrives set up. To check: My Car, Diagnosis, Car, then the name on your box's label, then Ford, then Ranger.
Now look at the bottom of your Brummstadt screen. That's your climate bar, and on this kit it stays there all the time: both set temperatures at the ends, AUTO, the fan and A/C in between.
Try it. Press AUTO, nudge each temperature, change the fan. The numbers move, and the air from the vents follows.
Then the board isn't talking yet. Battery off, and check the board's plugs: all on, each the right way round. One owner's screen said LO until the plug was back on his board, and another had a climate page that did nothing for weeks, because the board was never moved.
Driver's temperature showing on the passenger side? In My Car, Settings, AC setting, switch on Air temp reverse.
Like a climate window that pops up over CarPlay too? My Car, Settings, Other settings, and switch on Can float menu. Menu names can differ a little between software versions, so go by the words.
Camera setting: in reverse, foot on the brake, hold your finger on the picture until a box pops up. Pick AHD ten-eighty P, twenty-five hertz for our camera, or CVBS NTSC for the factory one.
One camera? Double recording stays off, or the screen says rear camera lost signals. And always tap Save, top right, or the change is lost.
Picture back to front, like in a mirror? Car Settings, General, Reverse Mirror. Upside down? Turn the camera itself; no setting fixes that.
Door picture showing the wrong door? On this unit, open Factory Settings with the code eight eight eight eight, go to Door Display, set it to R, then restart the unit. Some software has it under My Car, Door Window Settings, FDoor exchange instead.
Your phone: open Zed-Link, the app for CarPlay and Android Auto, and plug in, or pair over Bluetooth for wireless.
When it all works, photograph each settings screen, so you can set it back after a reset or update.
So keep the setup short, and do big downloads and updates with the engine running, on a drive or outdoors, never in a closed garage, or on a charger. Caught out? A charger or a jump start sorts it. Tap here for our update film.

Test before closing

Play from 23:42

Try the touch screen, every speaker with balance and fade, and a radio station you know.
Every wheel button, and the knobs and keys under the screen. A real call, both ways. And a whole voice command, not just the wake word.
Foot on the brake, select reverse, and the camera comes up, with your climate bar still at the bottom. Out of reverse, your normal screen's back.
Indicators, left then right: the screen should stay put. If it jumps to a camera, there are two usual reasons.
One: the red camera wire sits on the indicator wire, so move it to the reverse light. Two: a side-camera setting. No side cameras? In My Car, Settings, Fullview Sight, switch off Right 360 Camera Switch and the L and R steering switch.
Hazards: press the red key in the Brummstadt key strip. The lights flash outside, and the key springs back by itself.
Then the climate, on the bar: fan up and down, both temperatures, A/C on and off, and the demister. Feel the air change each time.
Ignition off and on again: your settings should still be there.
Console USB ports: with a USB retention lead in your kit, they connect to one of the unit's USB leads. Without one, they retire, and the Brummstadt leads take over.
Something not working? Battery off, and back through the plugs one by one; it's nearly always a plug or a setting. The Reset app and the RST button just restart the unit. Factory Reset, in Car Settings, wipes your settings, so it's never the first fix.

Closing up

Play from 25:59

All working? Lovely. Ignition off, wait two minutes, battery off again, then close up, so nothing's live while leads move and screws go in.
Then cable-tie the long leads together and to the car's wiring, and tie the CAN box down. Loose leads rattle, and in time an edge rubs through: power touches metal, a short, a blown fuse or worse. A few ties keep it quiet and safe.
Before the frame goes in, one more look at the board: every plug home, the hazard adapter's small lead in, nothing hanging loose behind it.
Feed the harness in as the unit goes home, every lead clear of screw holes and sharp edges.
Frame won't sit flat? Something's caught. Don't pull it down with the screws, they cut wires. Lift it, free the lead, and it sits flat.
Before the screws, press the hazard key: click, and it springs back. Catches? Lift the frame and reseat it; forced, the key sticks and your hazards stay on.
Now the screws, each from its spot on the map, by hand, with feel, holding the frame up. Snug, not tight: over-tighten, and the screw cuts into the plastic, the frame bends, and the hazard button can jam. Till it stops, a touch more, done.
Trim back in reverse order, each clip lined up with its hole and pressed home with the flat of your hand, or it rattles.
Battery on. One last round: hazards, the climate bar, steering wheel buttons, sound, camera. Closing up can nudge a plug, so this round counts.
The battery was off, so set the clock and reteach the driver's window: open it, hold its door switch up until it's shut plus two seconds, then check one tap up and one tap down.

Questions from customers

Questions Ranger owners asked us, answered in the video.

A twelve inch screen standing tall in my Ranger? Will it fit my dash? And what happens to my air con buttons and my hazard button?

G'day. Yes, it fits, and today we fit it together: the Brummstadt twelve point one inch screen in your Ford Ranger PX2 or PX3, in one clean frame from the vents down to the console.

Your air con moves onto the big screen, on a bar along the bottom that's always there. And the hazard button lives in the new row of keys under the screen.

See it in the video at 0:01

How long does the fitting take?

First time? Plan on two to three hours with the board move, and keep the afternoon free. Kettle on, no rush.

See it in the video at 1:38

So that panel with all the air con buttons, does it go back in afterwards?

Not with this kit. The new frame takes its place. What we keep is what's inside it: the green circuit board that runs your climate and your hazards.

Why your own board? It already knows your Ranger. Moved across, it keeps your climate talking to the car exactly as it did before.

See it in the video at 9:11

Hang on, my new plugs don't fit the ones behind the screen. Wrong kit?

Most likely it's the right one. The radio is split: screen up top, silver radio module below. Power and speakers come in behind the lower module, so the main harness plugs go there.

The big grey plug with the thick bundle of coloured wires is the main power and speaker plug. Its partner is the car plug that fed that lower silver module, not the screen. One owner had a dark screen until his grey plug went home there.

See it in the video at 10:59

And if the screen works, but the steering wheel buttons do nothing?

That's the one we hear most, and it's easy. Screen and sound work without the box's data lead, but the buttons only wake up with it in.

That short lead goes into its own small white socket on the unit. Follow it from the box and check your card, because some sockets look alike.

See it in the video at 15:10

And if it just says LO, and nothing happens when I touch it?

Then the board isn't talking yet. Battery off, and check the board's plugs: all on, each the right way round. One owner's screen said LO until the plug was back on his board, and another had a climate page that did nothing for weeks, because the board was never moved.

Driver's temperature showing on the passenger side? In My Car, Settings, AC setting, switch on Air temp reverse.

See it in the video at 21:03

It plays music! Can I close it up now?

Nearly. Ten minutes of testing first: a tweak takes seconds with the dash open, and an evening once it's closed.

Try the touch screen, every speaker with balance and fade, and a radio station you know.

See it in the video at 23:44

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The kit in this video

Ford Ranger PX MkII and MkIII 2015 to 2022 12.1 inch head unit kit

Ford Ranger PX MkII and MkIII 2015 to 2022 12.1 inch head unit kit

The kit in this video, with the 12.1 inch screen.

More Ford Ranger videos

Full transcript

0:01 Viewer: A twelve inch screen standing tall in my Ranger? Will it fit my dash? And what happens to my air con buttons and my hazard button?
0:11 Narrator: G'day. Yes, it fits, and today we fit it together: the Brummstadt twelve point one inch screen in your Ford Ranger PX2 or PX3, in one clean frame from the vents down to the console.
0:27 Narrator: Your air con moves onto the big screen, on a bar along the bottom that's always there. And the hazard button lives in the new row of keys under the screen.
0:39 Narrator: Here's the clever bit, and the one big job our standard kit doesn't have: your Ranger's own climate circuit board comes along. It moves from the old dash panel onto the back of the new screen, so your climate keeps talking to your Ranger exactly as before.
0:56 Viewer: Take a board out of my dash? I've never done anything like that.
1:02 Narrator: That's fine. It's a few screws and a bit of care, and we'll do it slowly, together. Knowing it now means no surprises with the dash in pieces.
1:15 Narrator: Everything here comes from real twelve inch installs, the ones that went smoothly and the ones that taught us something, so you get the shortcuts and know where to slow down.
1:28 Narrator: The plan: battery off, trim and old radio out, move the board, plug in the harness and extras, set up, test, and close up.
1:38 Narrator: First time? Plan on two to three hours with the board move, and keep the afternoon free. Kettle on, no rush.
1:47 Narrator: Watch once right to the end, hands in your pockets, because the end has a few extra tips. Then come back and do it with me, pausing whenever you like.
1:58 Narrator: This film follows the eight inch SYNC dash, the one most of our twelve inch owners have. Got the small four point two inch screen? Your kit comes with its own frame for that dash, and the trim, the CAN box and the tests run the same; your card shows the plugs for your dash.
2:17 Narrator: And one rule all day: feel, not force. If something won't move, there's a reason.
2:27 Narrator: First check: you ordered the frame for your dash. The big eight inch touchscreen is the SYNC option; the small screen with buttons around it is the four point two. Go by what's in your dash, not the year, because both were built in the same years.
2:45 Narrator: Ranger imported from America? Check before you start. Look at the compliance plate in the door opening: on an Australian Ranger it says the car was made to comply with the Motor Vehicle Standards Act, with its build month. US Rangers are wired differently, and the Australian kit won't plug in.
3:04 Narrator: Lay every part out on a towel, so anything missing shows up now: the screen in its frame, the harness, the CAN box, the aerials, the hazard adapter, and the camera and mic if you ordered them.
3:20 Narrator: Two leads in the box surprise people. One is tagged Double Flash Line: that's your hazard light adapter, and you'll need it. The other is tagged Everest audio cable: that one's made for the Ford Everest, so it stays in the box.
3:37 Narrator: Now turn the new Brummstadt screen over. The top half is the unit itself. The bottom half is a bare silver plate with a few empty windows. That's not a missing part. That's the spot waiting for your Ranger's board.
3:53 Narrator: Towel on the passenger seat, blanket over the console, so a slipped tool lands on something soft.
4:01 Narrator: Draw the dash on paper and tape each screw where it came out. Today there's one more group: the screws from the back of the old dash panel. Give them their own cup.
4:15 Narrator: Photograph every plug before you unplug it. And the plugs on the old dash panel, take them twice, from the side, because those go back exactly the same way round later.
4:28 Narrator: Tools: plastic trim tools, a Phillips screwdriver and a small one for the board, a seven mil socket and extension, a spanner for the battery clamp, tape and cable ties; for a camera, a meter or test light and T-splice connectors.
4:46 Narrator: Why plastic? Metal scratches soft trim for good. And the radio side is all plug-in; nothing gets cut.
4:56 Narrator: Last, try the old system once: radio, wheel buttons, camera, hazards, and the air con, AUTO, both temperatures, the fan and A/C. Snap a photo of the climate settings, so you can compare at the end.
5:14 Narrator: Battery next. Handbrake on, lever right back for room; an automatic only moves with the ignition on and your foot on the brake, so do it first, or it stays stuck in your way.
5:29 Narrator: Then ignition, lights and radio off, wait two minutes, and undo only the negative terminal, the one marked minus. Go by the mark, not the cable colour.
5:42 Narrator: That little box on the negative clamp is the battery sensor. Loosen the clamp nut, never the sensor bolt, which can damage the sensor, its plug and the post, and lift both off together.
5:57 Narrator: Tuck the clamp aside in a cloth. Second battery? Disconnect it too; a dark screen doesn't mean no power.
6:06 Viewer: Do I really have to? It's only the radio.
6:11 Narrator: Fair question. Battery on, one bare pin touching metal can blow a fuse or damage the harness. Two minutes with a spanner buys a relaxed afternoon.
6:25 Narrator: Trim is held by clips, and clips like a straight pull towards you. Twist it, and a tab snaps, and that panel rattles forever, like a tiny drummer.
6:37 Narrator: Driver's vent first: plastic tool in at the lower inner end of the chrome surround, and ease it out. Five clips.
6:47 Narrator: Passenger side: one long, slim panel with both passenger vents. Lever the lower edge and work along. Ten clips.
6:57 Narrator: A clip stayed in the dash? Push it back onto its panel, or that panel will rattle.
7:05 Narrator: Down low, unclip the side panels by the console. Behind them, two seven mil bolts hold the panel with the twelve volt sockets.
7:16 Narrator: Take them out, unplug its sockets straight back, then unclip the long thin strip under the screen. Push-button start? Unplug that too.
7:29 Narrator: Now the centre panel, the big piece with the hazard button and the climate controls. On the SYNC dash it's held by six screws: two at the top, two halfway down, two at the bottom.
7:43 Narrator: Small screen dash: five. Panel stuck? There's a screw left. Look again rather than pull harder, because a forced corner cracks off for good.
7:55 Narrator: Every screw straight onto your map. One that slips down behind the dash is an evening's fishing trip.
8:03 Narrator: With your helper, ease it forward. Photograph each plug on its back, unplug them, and lay the panel face up on the towel, or the little buttons fall out. Treat it kindly: its board is coming with us.
8:18 Narrator: Every plug: thumb on the latch, then pull the plug, never the wires. Some are hair-thin, with no slack to fix a break.
8:29 Narrator: SYNC cars: four screws free the screen and SYNC module. Unplug, lift out, and remember those screen plugs.
8:39 Narrator: Below, the silver radio module sits on two metal side brackets, two screws each side, and slides out towards you.
8:48 Narrator: Small screen cars: eight screws, and the display and radio come out together.
8:55 Narrator: The aerial plug has a locking tab: press it down, hold, and pull the plug body. Never the cable, or the thin wire inside breaks and reception goes weak.
9:11 Viewer: So that panel with all the air con buttons, does it go back in afterwards?
9:17 Narrator: Not with this kit. The new frame takes its place. What we keep is what's inside it: the green circuit board that runs your climate and your hazards.
9:29 Narrator: Why your own board? It already knows your Ranger. Moved across, it keeps your climate talking to the car exactly as it did before.
9:39 Narrator: Turn the panel over on the towel. Undo the screws holding the board, every one into its cup, and look again before you lift: one forgotten screw, and the board can crack when you pull.
9:54 Narrator: Lift it by its edges, never by the parts on it, and keep it flat. A cracked board or a bent pin means no climate and no hazards, and that's not a part you'll find at the servo.
10:08 Narrator: Now the new screen, face down on the towel. Lay your board on the Brummstadt silver plate so its sockets line up with the windows, and its screw holes sit over the plate's.
10:21 Narrator: Screws in by hand: snug, not tight. Over-tighten, and the screw strips its thread or the board cracks. Turn till it stops, a touch more, done.
10:33 Narrator: Check it: the board sits flat, nothing rattles, and every socket shows through its window. That's the step that sounds hardest, done.
10:44 Narrator: Keep the empty panel in a box in the shed. It won't go back in with this kit, but it's yours, and if you ever go back to the factory radio, it's where the board goes home.
10:59 Viewer: Hang on, my new plugs don't fit the ones behind the screen. Wrong kit?
11:06 Narrator: Most likely it's the right one. The radio is split: screen up top, silver radio module below. Power and speakers come in behind the lower module, so the main harness plugs go there.
11:19 Narrator: The big grey plug with the thick bundle of coloured wires is the main power and speaker plug. Its partner is the car plug that fed that lower silver module, not the screen. One owner had a dark screen until his grey plug went home there.
11:36 Narrator: But the screen plugs aren't spare. On a SYNC car, that big plug helps keep the climate display, wheel buttons, parking sensors and factory camera working; on a small screen car, the display plug is used too. Where your harness has a partner for one, it moves across.
11:55 Narrator: Click each car plug into its partner on the harness. Each harness plug has its own shape, like a kids' shape puzzle.
12:05 Narrator: Push till it clicks, then a gentle tug on the plug body. Half-latched drops out on the first corrugated road.
12:15 Narrator: And never push loose wire ends into a car plug just to try something. A bare wire in the wrong pin can short. Plugs go into plugs, and that's it.
12:27 Narrator: Now the climate plugs. Every plug that came off your old dash panel goes back to the board, through its window, each to the socket it came from; your photos tell you which. One of them goes through the hazard adapter, and that's coming up next.
12:44 Narrator: They only go one way round. Line up the little key with its slot, then push straight. Turned around or forced, the pins bend and the climate stays dead. The right way, it slides in and clicks.
13:00 Narrator: Then the hazard adapter, the Double Flash Line. One big plug takes the car plug of the same shape from your old panel, the other goes onto the board, and its small red and black lead clicks into the back of the unit. Leave it out, and your hazard button does nothing.
13:19 Narrator: A socket on the plate with no pins in it? That's just a window waiting for the board. With the board fitted, the pins are right there.
13:29 Narrator: Won't go in? Check the pair; never force it, never cut it. No partner yet? Set it aside for now.
13:39 Narrator: Aerials next. The car's radio aerial plugs into the Brummstadt aerial lead, and the screw-on aerials go onto the ports on the back of the unit: GPS, and Wi-Fi with four G. Each port has its name beside it, so match the names.
13:57 Narrator: Units vary from batch to batch. The connection card in your box, or the installation guide on our website, names every socket, so match plugs by name, not by where they sat in a video.
14:11 Narrator: Two USB leads with different jobs. Your card says which one is for the phone: on some batches it's the four-pin, on others the six-pin, so go by your card. And wireless CarPlay and Android Auto don't need a cable at all.
14:28 Narrator: Using four G? Find the SIM slot on your unit and put the SIM in now. Once the unit's in the dash, the back is out of reach.
14:40 Narrator: A car plug with no partner? The factory GPS, mic and Bluetooth plugs retire, because your unit has its own; tape and tuck them. Any other plug isn't spare, so never join it to something just because it fits.
14:59 Narrator: This little box is the translator between your Ranger and the screen: the CAN box. Wheel buttons and car data, like the climate, go through it.
15:10 Viewer: And if the screen works, but the steering wheel buttons do nothing?
15:15 Narrator: That's the one we hear most, and it's easy. Screen and sound work without the box's data lead, but the buttons only wake up with it in.
15:27 Narrator: That short lead goes into its own small white socket on the unit. Follow it from the box and check your card, because some sockets look alike.
15:38 Narrator: Plug it in now, while the battery's still off, because plugging in live can blow a fuse. Lead in, and the buttons wake up.
15:51 Narrator: The yellow lead with two blue wires goes in even without a camera: the blue wires are aerials for Bluetooth and Wi-Fi, so keep them off metal.
16:03 Narrator: Keeping your factory camera? Its plug goes into the yellow retention lead from your kit, and that goes into the unit's yellow video input.
16:14 Narrator: Fitting the Brummstadt rear camera? It goes on the tailgate by the number plate. Run its six metre lead along the car's own wiring, through a grommet, never over a sharp edge, tied as you go, with a slack loop at the hinge so it can't pinch.
16:32 Narrator: Power comes from the reverse light: red wire T-spliced onto its positive wire, black to bare metal. Check with a meter: twelve volts in reverse, none in park, never flashing with the indicator. On the blinker wire, the screen jumps to the camera every time you indicate.
16:51 Narrator: At the dash, the yellow plugs meet, and the camera's short red wire joins the brown pin three wire tagged Back, so the unit knows you're reversing.
17:03 Narrator: Ordered the front and rear camera set? Its lead ends in a small white plug that clicks into its own white socket on the back of the unit; your card shows which one. It only goes in one way, so line it up and never force it.
17:20 Narrator: A front camera goes in the grille, into its own socket, with Double recording switched on. Tap here for our full camera film, with every setting and check.
17:31 Narrator: Now the microphone. In the box you may find two little clip-on mics; one is plenty. The built-in mic sits low in the dash near the fan, so callers hear the fan more than you. The clip-on mic goes up near your head.
17:49 Narrator: It plugs into the lead marked MIC, on the bundle with the red and white plugs behind the unit. Push it right home while the dash is open.
18:00 Narrator: Run the lead under the dash, up the windscreen pillar behind the rubber door seal, and under the roof lining's edge to beside the sun visor, close to your mouth. The pillar trim stays on: there's a curtain airbag behind it.
18:16 Narrator: Tie the lead to the car's wiring, never to anything airbag, then select External Mic in the settings; that's what sorted the calls for many of our customers. Tap here for our full microphone film.
18:30 Narrator: The GPS aerial goes under the plastic dash top, never on metal, because metal blocks the satellites. The factory GPS plug retires. Keep the Wi-Fi and four G aerial nearby, under plastic too.
18:46 Narrator: Run the phone USB lead, the one your card names, into the glovebox, clear of the hinge, so you can reach it without opening the dash.
18:57 Narrator: Use a data cable, not a charge-only one, or CarPlay won't start. Phone charging but no CarPlay? Try another cable first. Tap here for our phone connection film.
19:09 Narrator: Ordered DAB plus? Strip aerial on the passenger side of the windscreen, earth plate on bare metal, lead into the USB lead your card names for it. Tap here for more on DAB.
19:26 Narrator: Before anything goes back, let's wake it up: negative terminal on, nut snug, ignition on.
19:34 Narrator: Screen stays dark? Battery off, and check the grey power plug down at the lower module first; that's the one our twelve inch owners find loose most. Then the other lower plugs and the CAN lead.
19:49 Narrator: Safety note: a hot plug, smoke or a burning smell means ignition off and battery off until that plug's checked. Left powered, it can melt its wires.
20:02 Narrator: A few settings live in My Car. That's an app on your Brummstadt screen itself, with a little car on its icon, not an app on your phone.
20:13 Narrator: The CAN box usually arrives set up. To check: My Car, Diagnosis, Car, then the name on your box's label, then Ford, then Ranger.
20:25 Narrator: That label is your source. A forum's or a mate's settings can belong to another box, and then buttons do odd things. Single buttons can be remapped in My Car.
20:39 Narrator: Now look at the bottom of your Brummstadt screen. That's your climate bar, and on this kit it stays there all the time: both set temperatures at the ends, AUTO, the fan and A/C in between.
20:53 Narrator: Try it. Press AUTO, nudge each temperature, change the fan. The numbers move, and the air from the vents follows.
21:03 Viewer: And if it just says LO, and nothing happens when I touch it?
21:08 Narrator: Then the board isn't talking yet. Battery off, and check the board's plugs: all on, each the right way round. One owner's screen said LO until the plug was back on his board, and another had a climate page that did nothing for weeks, because the board was never moved.
21:28 Narrator: Driver's temperature showing on the passenger side? In My Car, Settings, AC setting, switch on Air temp reverse.
21:37 Narrator: Like a climate window that pops up over CarPlay too? My Car, Settings, Other settings, and switch on Can float menu. Menu names can differ a little between software versions, so go by the words.
21:53 Narrator: Camera setting: in reverse, foot on the brake, hold your finger on the picture until a box pops up. Pick AHD ten-eighty P, twenty-five hertz for our camera, or CVBS NTSC for the factory one.
22:10 Narrator: One camera? Double recording stays off, or the screen says rear camera lost signals. And always tap Save, top right, or the change is lost.
22:23 Narrator: Picture back to front, like in a mirror? Car Settings, General, Reverse Mirror. Upside down? Turn the camera itself; no setting fixes that.
22:35 Narrator: Door picture showing the wrong door? On this unit, open Factory Settings with the code eight eight eight eight, go to Door Display, set it to R, then restart the unit. Some software has it under My Car, Door Window Settings, FDoor exchange instead.
22:54 Narrator: Your phone: open Zed-Link, the app for CarPlay and Android Auto, and plug in, or pair over Bluetooth for wireless.
23:04 Narrator: When it all works, photograph each settings screen, so you can set it back after a reset or update.
23:13 Narrator: With the engine off, the unit runs on the battery alone. One owner downloaded offline maps for hours in the driveway, and the Ranger wouldn't start.
23:24 Narrator: So keep the setup short, and do big downloads and updates with the engine running, on a drive or outdoors, never in a closed garage, or on a charger. Caught out? A charger or a jump start sorts it. Tap here for our update film.
23:44 Viewer: It plays music! Can I close it up now?
23:49 Narrator: Nearly. Ten minutes of testing first: a tweak takes seconds with the dash open, and an evening once it's closed.
23:58 Narrator: Try the touch screen, every speaker with balance and fade, and a radio station you know.
24:07 Narrator: Every wheel button, and the knobs and keys under the screen. A real call, both ways. And a whole voice command, not just the wake word.
24:18 Narrator: Foot on the brake, select reverse, and the camera comes up, with your climate bar still at the bottom. Out of reverse, your normal screen's back.
24:29 Narrator: Indicators, left then right: the screen should stay put. If it jumps to a camera, there are two usual reasons.
24:39 Narrator: One: the red camera wire sits on the indicator wire, so move it to the reverse light. Two: a side-camera setting. No side cameras? In My Car, Settings, Fullview Sight, switch off Right 360 Camera Switch and the L and R steering switch.
24:59 Narrator: Hazards: press the red key in the Brummstadt key strip. The lights flash outside, and the key springs back by itself.
25:09 Narrator: Then the climate, on the bar: fan up and down, both temperatures, A/C on and off, and the demister. Feel the air change each time.
25:20 Narrator: Ignition off and on again: your settings should still be there.
25:26 Narrator: Console USB ports: with a USB retention lead in your kit, they connect to one of the unit's USB leads. Without one, they retire, and the Brummstadt leads take over.
25:39 Narrator: Something not working? Battery off, and back through the plugs one by one; it's nearly always a plug or a setting. The Reset app and the RST button just restart the unit. Factory Reset, in Car Settings, wipes your settings, so it's never the first fix.
26:01 Narrator: All working? Lovely. Ignition off, wait two minutes, battery off again, then close up, so nothing's live while leads move and screws go in.
26:13 Narrator: Then cable-tie the long leads together and to the car's wiring, and tie the CAN box down. Loose leads rattle, and in time an edge rubs through: power touches metal, a short, a blown fuse or worse. A few ties keep it quiet and safe.
26:32 Narrator: Tape loose plug ends and the retired factory plugs, so nothing dangles. No tiny drummers.
26:40 Narrator: Before the frame goes in, one more look at the board: every plug home, the hazard adapter's small lead in, nothing hanging loose behind it.
26:52 Narrator: Feed the harness in as the unit goes home, every lead clear of screw holes and sharp edges.
27:00 Narrator: Frame won't sit flat? Something's caught. Don't pull it down with the screws, they cut wires. Lift it, free the lead, and it sits flat.
27:11 Narrator: Before the screws, press the hazard key: click, and it springs back. Catches? Lift the frame and reseat it; forced, the key sticks and your hazards stay on.
27:25 Narrator: Now the screws, each from its spot on the map, by hand, with feel, holding the frame up. Snug, not tight: over-tighten, and the screw cuts into the plastic, the frame bends, and the hazard button can jam. Till it stops, a touch more, done.
27:44 Narrator: Trim back in reverse order, each clip lined up with its hole and pressed home with the flat of your hand, or it rattles.
27:56 Narrator: Battery on. One last round: hazards, the climate bar, steering wheel buttons, sound, camera. Closing up can nudge a plug, so this round counts.
28:09 Narrator: The battery was off, so set the clock and reteach the driver's window: open it, hold its door switch up until it's shut plus two seconds, then check one tap up and one tap down.
28:24 Narrator: That's it. You've fitted a Brummstadt twelve inch screen to your Ranger, board move and all, yourself. The kettle's cold, but you've earned a fresh cup.
28:35 Narrator: Everything here we learned from our installs, our installers and our twelve inch owners, including the ones who showed us why the board has to move. Every story made this film better.
28:48 Narrator: Extra tip: after the battery's been off, an automatic may shift a little firmly while the engine computer relearns; that's normal. And keep your card, your plug photos and the old panel together in one box.
29:02 Narrator: Still got a question, or an idea for your Ranger? Have a yarn with us at Brummstadt, any time; we work with these units every day.
29:12 Narrator: We want every owner to get it right first go, which is why our films go this deep. Spot something missing that would help the next person? Leave us a comment wherever you're watching; we read every one and improve the guides with it. You're with the experts, and you're part of it.
29:31 Narrator: Now, a small favour. Before you bought, you probably read a few reviews; somebody's five stars helped you decide.
29:40 Narrator: Still deciding? Good on you, you'll love it. Just fitted it, and it saved you a support message and an afternoon? Or someone at Brummstadt helped you along? Then you're probably thinking: they've earned their five stars. Name your helper too; they'll be chuffed.
29:57 Narrator: It's one click on the review button, right here, and it's quicker than moving a climate board, and it tells the next Ranger owner they're in good hands. Enjoy the drive.

If you have still got a question about your Ranger, ask us at Brummstadt. We sell these kits and work with them every day.