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Fit your Brummstadt screen to a Ford Ranger PX1 (2012 to 2015)

Video, 27:04. 12 steps, each one also written out below.

In this video

Speed

Quality

Fit the Brummstadt screen to your PX1 yourself, one step at a time, and test everything before the dash goes back together.

Time: About 27 minutes to watch. First time, give yourself an afternoon, a bit more with a camera.
Have ready: The kit box and the tools from the Preparation chapter. The video names every part before you start.
Kits can look different: Your kit may look a little different from the one in the video. Go by the names, the plugs and the card in your box.
How to watch: Watch the video once, then start again and follow along.

Step by step

The same steps as the video. Each one plays from its own spot.

Preparation

A PX1 has a little screen on top of the dash, radio buttons under it, and three round air con knobs, all in one silver or dark grey surround.
A twenty fifteen? Go by the dash, not the year: little screen on top, like this one, and this is your film. The compliance plate in the door opening shows the build month too.
Decide one thing first: that little top screen. Keep it, and your steering wheel buttons can't talk to the new screen. Move its plug to the Brummstadt wiring, and your volume and track buttons work it; the little screen goes dark, and a cover plate from the kit closes the gap. Most owners move it, and that's what we'll show.
Because that plug carries the wheel button signals. Plugged into the old screen, it keeps them; on the Brummstadt wiring, they reach your new screen.
Your parking sensors keep beeping just like before; the little top screen just stops showing them.
Lay every part out on a towel, so anything missing shows now: frame with screen, harness, CAN box, the bundle of round plugs, aerial adapter, the little radio booster, the hazard button adapter, GPS aerial, USB leads, the cover plate, a bag of spare screws, the connection card, and the camera and mic if you ordered them.
A few plugs and wires on the harness stay spare, like Key one, Key two and one marked ILL. That's normal: the harness suits every PX1 version.
Towel on the passenger seat, blanket over the console, so a slipped screwdriver lands soft.
Draw your dash on paper and tape each screw where it came out, and photograph every plug before unplugging it.
You'll want plastic trim tools, a Phillips screwdriver, a spanner for the battery clamp, tape and cable ties. For a camera, add a test light or meter, and a few T-splices: little clip-on joiners that tap a wire without cutting it.
Why plastic tools? A metal screwdriver dents and scratches the soft dash plastic, and those marks stay forever.
Last, try the old system once: radio, wheel buttons, fan, hazards, the lock button and the reversing beepers, so you know what worked before.

Battery off

Battery next. Handbrake on, everything off, then undo only the negative terminal, marked minus. Go by the mark, not the cable colour.
A little box on that clamp? That's a battery sensor. Loosen the clamp nut, not the sensor bolt, or you can damage the sensor and the post, and lift both off together.
Tuck the clamp in a cloth so it can't spring back. Got a second battery? Undo that one too, because it can still feed power to the dash.

Surround off

Now the good bit. On a PX1, the whole centre surround comes off in one piece: top screen hood, radio buttons and air con panel together. No screws, just clips.
Start at the bottom: plastic tool in at both bottom corners, under the knobs, and ease the edge towards you till the clips let go.
Then up both sides beside the vents, and last, the top of the hood. Straight towards you, never sideways, and only a hand's width for now: the air con and button panels are still plugged in behind it, on short leads, and a full pull can strain them.
Clips like a straight pull. Twist it, and a clip tab snaps, and the new frame sits loose or rattles later.
Behind it, the air con panel and the button panel are still plugged in. Thumb on each latch, unplug, and lay the surround face up, so no button falls out.
Every plug the same way: press the latch, pull the plug body, never the wires. A thin wire can break inside, with no slack to fix it.

Radio and top screen out

Now you'll see two boxes: the old radio in its metal cage, and the top screen up in the hood space.
Before the radio comes out, find your aerial plug. On some PX1s it's behind the radio, on others it comes up near the little top screen. Follow the lead with a finger, so you know which.
Radio first: four screws, two on each side, one up high and one down low. Then slide it towards you, just a hand's width.
Then slowly: that aerial lead is thin, with only a few centimetres of slack. If it's behind the radio, reach in, press the latch, and pull the plug, not the cable. Yank the radio out, and that lead snaps, and your radio reception's gone.
Then the big plugs behind it, latch first, and the radio lifts out.
Now the top screen: two screws along the top of its white bracket, reached from above. Lift it up and out, press the latch on its black plug, and pull the plug. That's your steering wheel button plug, the one from the start, so keep it in reach.
A few small round plugs on it too? Photograph them. If one comes from your aerial, that's the one for the aerial adapter; tape the others.

Top screen: your choice

Back to that top screen choice. Leave its plug on the old screen, and that screen lights up while the wheel buttons do nothing. It's the most common PX1 question we get, and this one plug sorts it.
Moving it, like most owners? Then the cover plate closes the top opening, from the inside: the little tab at each end lines up with a hole on the back of the frame.
A small screw through each tab holds it: the spare screws in your kit, or any short screw that can't poke through to the front. Snug, not tight: it's soft plastic, and a hard turn cracks a tab or strips the hole.
Do it now, on the towel, while it's easy to reach. From the front, you'll see a neat, closed shelf above your screen.
Keeping the old screen? Then its plug stays, it goes back in its bracket, no plate, and you run the new unit by touch and voice. Later, when we move the top screen plug, you simply skip that step.

Into the new frame

Not at all, they come with you. The air con panel is screwed to the back of the old surround: screws out, panel off.
Into the new frame from behind, knobs through the openings, and line it up evenly before a single screw goes in.
Then the screws, by hand, snug, corner to corner. Crank one down, and the frame bends, the panel sits crooked, and the gaps round the knobs won't close.
Not flush first go? That's the classic PX1 snag. Screws out, reseat it, and try again gently; that calm second go is what got it right for owners before you.
Now the metal clips on the old surround's edge: move every one to the matching spot on the new frame. Forget them, and the frame sits loose, and can pop out on a bumpy road.
Your old surround has six clips; the new frame has spots for eight. Two more of the same clips, from a car parts shop, make the top sit firm, so it's best to have them ready before you start.
The frame has its own hazard and lock buttons. The car's plug from the old buttons goes into the Brummstadt adapter, and the adapter into the new buttons.
That plug won't slide in? Look at the car's plug: some have a small black bracket around it that gets in the way. Ease it off and try again, gently. Still no? Never trim it and never force it: a cut plug can't be undone, and it still won't fit.
The air con panel keeps its own car plug, as before. Not into the Brummstadt harness: a plug there can look just like it, but that one's for a camera, and the air con would go quiet.

Plugs

Play from 11:12

Now the plugs. The car's radio plugs click into their partners on the Brummstadt harness, and the harness into the unit.
And the top screen plug goes into its partner on the Brummstadt wiring, by the CAN box.
Push till it clicks, then a gentle tug on the plug body. Half-latched works today, then shakes loose on the first corrugated road, and the screen flickers.
Won't go together? Check the pair. Never trim, never force: a plug that truly doesn't match needs another lead, not a knife.
The car's aerial plug goes into the Brummstadt aerial adapter, and that into the unit.
Units change a little from batch to batch, even from what you see here, so match plugs by the names on the connection card in your box.
That bundle of round plugs that looks spare? Its main plug goes into the unit, because the camera and mic leads hang off it. Most of its round ends stay free, unless you add something like an amplifier.
The unit's cooling fan plug goes into its partner too, so it keeps cool in a hot cab.
A car plug with no partner? The factory mic and GPS plugs aren't needed any more, since your unit has its own: tape and tuck them. And never join plugs just because they fit: one owner's air con went quiet that way, and came back once the plug went home where it came from.

CAN box

Play from 12:55

This little box is the translator between your Ranger and the screen. Wheel buttons and car data, like the air con readout, go through it.
Two checks, and it's nearly always one of them. One: the top screen plug is on the Brummstadt wiring. Two: the CAN box's short data lead is in its own small socket on the unit.
Plug that data lead in now, battery off. Power up without it, and the wheel buttons can stay dead until you do that bit again: battery off, lead in, battery on.

Camera, mic and extras

Play from 13:42

The single yellow lead with two thin blue wires goes in, camera or not. It's the camera input, and its blue wires are the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi aerials, so keep them off metal.
Brummstadt rear camera? It goes by the number plate or under the bumper, on its bracket. Run the lead along the car's own wiring, through a grommet, that's the rubber plug where the car's wires pass through, off sharp edges, and tied as you go. Tap here for our camera film; it walks the whole route.
The camera's own red power wire goes to the reverse light: T-spliced to its positive wire, with black to bare metal. Meter first: twelve volts in reverse, none in park, never flashing.
Hit the blinker wire, and the screen jumps to the camera every time you indicate. The meter takes a minute, and saves opening the dash again.
At the dash, the camera's yellow plug goes into that single yellow lead with the blue wires, not the socket marked VIDEO IN, where the screen stays black.
Then a different red: the thin red wire on that yellow lead. It goes to the third wire from the top left of the main power plug, pink on some units, brown and tagged Back on others. It tells the screen you're in reverse.
Factory camera in your rear-view mirror? It keeps its own wiring to the mirror; the Brummstadt camera is the one for your screen.
A front camera goes in the grille, into its own white socket, the fifth on the loom, as your card shows, with Double recording on, the setting for two cameras.
Now the mic. The built-in one sits low in the dash, close to the car noise; the external mic goes up near your mouth, so callers hear you, not the road. It plugs into the black lead marked MIC on that round-plug bundle, pushed right home.
A good PX1 spot: on top of the steering column cover, facing you, like in this Ranger, the lead behind the cover, never wrapped round the column. Or up by the sun visor, the lead behind the rubber door seal, and the pillar trim left on: there's a curtain airbag behind it.
Then select External Mic in the settings. That sorted the calls for many of our customers, a PX1 owner among them. The old roof mic isn't used. Tap here for our microphone film.
The GPS aerial goes under the plastic dash top, never on metal, because metal blocks the satellites.
Two USB leads, two jobs: four-pin for your phone and update sticks, six-pin for DAB plus or tyre sensors. Run the phone one somewhere handy, like the glovebox, clear of the hinge.
Data cable, not charge-only. Phone charging, but no CarPlay? That's the classic sign, so try another cable first. Tap here for our phone film.
Factory USB socket in the console? It only keeps working with a short adapter lead, the USB retention lead, which comes in some kits. Without one, the Brummstadt USB leads take over.
Ordered DAB plus? Strip aerial on the passenger side of the windscreen, lead into the six-pin USB.

First power-up

Play from 17:26

Before anything goes back, wake it up. Rest the frame on the blanket over the console, everything plugged in, so nothing hangs on its wires. Negative on, nut snug, ignition on, and there's the Brummstadt logo.
Screen stays black? Battery off, and check the main power plug and the plugs at the unit. A plug that's not quite clicked is suspect number one.
A plug ever hot, smoking or smelling of burning? Ignition off, battery off. Left powered, it can melt its wires.
The CAN box usually arrives set up. To check, tap My Car, then Diagnosis, then Car, then pick the name on your box's label, then Ford, then Ranger.
That label is your source. A profile from a forum or a mate's car may suit another box, and then the buttons do odd things.
Now turn an air con knob: a climate bar slides in along the bottom of your Brummstadt screen, with temperature and fan.
Dual-zone, and the sides look swapped? My Car, Settings, AC setting, and switch Air temp reverse. Tap here for our PX1 climate film.
Open a door, and the screen shows which one. Wrong side? My Car, Door Window Settings, F Door exchange.
Camera format: in reverse, foot on the brake, hold your finger on the picture until a box pops up, and pick the format called AHD 1080P, 25 Hz, for our camera.
Still no signal? First check that thin red wire and the yellow plug from before. Then try AHD 720P, 25 Hz. One camera only? Double recording stays off. And always tap Save, or the change is lost.
Picture back to front? That one's in the other settings app, Car Settings: General, then Reverse Mirror. Upside down? Turn the camera on its bracket; no setting fixes that.
Your phone: open the app called ZLINK, for CarPlay and Android Auto, then plug in, or pair over Bluetooth for wireless.
The clock lived on the little top screen. Now it's on your Brummstadt screen, so set the time there.
When it all works, photograph each settings screen, to set it back after a reset or update.
So keep setup short, and do big downloads and updates with the engine running outdoors, never in a closed garage, because exhaust fumes build up in there, or on a charger. Caught out? A proper charge or a jump start sorts it. Tap here for our update film.

Test before closing

Play from 20:49

Touch screen, every speaker with balance and fade, and a radio station you know.
Station plays a few seconds, then hops off? Switch off AF, the setting that hunts for a stronger signal.
Stations fuzzy, or only half of them? Battery off, and fit the little booster from your kit between the aerial and the unit, its blue wire to the blue aerial power wire on the harness.
Steering wheel: volume up and down, and the track buttons, left and right.
The centre voice button and answering calls from the wheel don't carry over on the PX1; that's normal with this kit. Answer on the screen, and Hey Siri or Hey Google does the rest.
A real call, both ways, and a whole voice command, not just the wake word.
Foot on the brake, select reverse: the camera comes up, and the reversing beepers beep as before. Out of reverse, your normal screen's back.
Indicators, left then right: the screen should stay put. Jumps to the camera? The camera's red power wire is on the indicator wire, so move it to the reverse light. No side cameras, and it still jumps? In My Car, Settings, Fullview Sight, switch off the side camera switches.
Hazards flashing outside, the button springs back; then the lock button: lock, unlock.
Then the air con: fan, temperature, face, feet, windscreen, demister, and the climate bar following along.
Ignition off and on again: your settings should still be there.
Something not working? Battery off, back through the plugs one by one: it's nearly always a plug or a setting. The Reset app, and the little RST hole at the top left of the screen, just restart the unit. Factory Reset wipes your settings and ZLINK, so never first.

Closing up

Play from 23:20

All working? Lovely. Ignition off, battery off, then close up, so nothing's live while leads move.
Cable-tie the long leads together and to the car's wiring, and tie the CAN box down. Loose leads rattle, and an edge can rub through: power hits metal, a short, a blown fuse or worse.
Booster and spare loops beside the unit, not behind, so the frame goes all the way home.
Now the frame, with the screen on it, goes in as one piece. Feed the harness in as it goes, every lead clear of clip holes and sharp edges.
Top edge in first, then press the bottom home, clip by clip, with the flat of your hand.
Won't sit flat? Something's caught. Don't thump it; a trapped lead gets crushed. Lift it, free the lead, and it sits flat.
Run a finger round the edge. A hair's gap can be normal, as Ford dashes vary a little. One corner standing proud is a clip not home, so press it in.
Battery on. Last round: hazards, lock, air con, wheel buttons, sound, camera, and the buttons right beside the frame should click freely. Pressing the frame in can nudge a plug, so this round counts.
The battery was off, so if your driver's window has one-touch, reteach it: run it fully up, hold the switch a second or two longer, then check one touch down and up.

Questions from customers

Questions Ranger owners asked us, answered in the video.

How long does the fitting take?

First time? Give yourself an afternoon, a bit more with a camera. Done it before? Thirty to forty-five minutes. Kettle on, no rush.

See it in the video at 0:27

Why can't I keep the little top screen and the wheel buttons?

Because that plug carries the wheel button signals. Plugged into the old screen, it keeps them; on the Brummstadt wiring, they reach your new screen.

Your parking sensors keep beeping just like before; the little top screen just stops showing them.

See it in the video at 2:13

Do I lose my air con knobs?

Not at all, they come with you. The air con panel is screwed to the back of the old surround: screws out, panel off.

Into the new frame from behind, knobs through the openings, and line it up evenly before a single screw goes in.

See it in the video at 9:08

And if the screen works, but the wheel buttons do nothing?

Two checks, and it's nearly always one of them. One: the top screen plug is on the Brummstadt wiring. Two: the CAN box's short data lead is in its own small socket on the unit.

Plug that data lead in now, battery off. Power up without it, and the wheel buttons can stay dead until you do that bit again: battery off, lead in, battery on.

See it in the video at 13:07

It plays music! Can I close it up now?

Nearly. Ten minutes of testing first: a tweak takes seconds with the dash open, and an evening once it's closed.

Touch screen, every speaker with balance and fade, and a radio station you know.

See it in the video at 20:50

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The kit in this video

Ford Ranger PX 2012 to 2015 head unit kit

Ford Ranger PX 2012 to 2015 head unit kit

The kit in this video, with the 9 inch or 13.3 inch screen.

More Ford Ranger videos

Full transcript

0:01 Narrator: G'day. Today we fit a Brummstadt screen to your Ford Ranger PX1, so it looks factory-fitted, and you'll have done it yourself.
0:11 Narrator: Nine inch screen sitting flush, or the big thirteen point three inch floating in front: this film covers both.
0:19 Narrator: Plain air con knobs, or dual-zone with little temperature windows? Same kit, and your knobs stay.
0:27 Narrator: First time? Give yourself an afternoon, a bit more with a camera. Done it before? Thirty to forty-five minutes. Kettle on, no rush.
0:37 Narrator: Here's the day: battery off, dash apart, the top screen sorted, your knobs into the new frame, everything plugged in and tested, then we close it up.
0:49 Narrator: Three names you'll hear: the frame, the new black surround with the screen in it; the harness, the bundle of Brummstadt plugs; and the CAN box, the little black box that lets your Ranger and the screen talk.
1:03 Narrator: Watch once right to the end, hands in your pockets, because the end has extra tips. Then do it with me, pausing whenever you like.
1:14 Narrator: And one rule for the whole day: feel, not force. If something won't move, there's a reason, and we'll find it.
1:25 Narrator: A PX1 has a little screen on top of the dash, radio buttons under it, and three round air con knobs, all in one silver or dark grey surround.
1:37 Narrator: A twenty fifteen? Go by the dash, not the year: little screen on top, like this one, and this is your film. The compliance plate in the door opening shows the build month too.
1:51 Narrator: Decide one thing first: that little top screen. Keep it, and your steering wheel buttons can't talk to the new screen. Move its plug to the Brummstadt wiring, and your volume and track buttons work it; the little screen goes dark, and a cover plate from the kit closes the gap. Most owners move it, and that's what we'll show.
2:13 Viewer: Why can't I have both?
2:17 Narrator: Because that plug carries the wheel button signals. Plugged into the old screen, it keeps them; on the Brummstadt wiring, they reach your new screen.
2:27 Narrator: Your parking sensors keep beeping just like before; the little top screen just stops showing them.
2:34 Narrator: Lay every part out on a towel, so anything missing shows now: frame with screen, harness, CAN box, the bundle of round plugs, aerial adapter, the little radio booster, the hazard button adapter, GPS aerial, USB leads, the cover plate, a bag of spare screws, the connection card, and the camera and mic if you ordered them.
2:58 Narrator: A few plugs and wires on the harness stay spare, like Key one, Key two and one marked ILL. That's normal: the harness suits every PX1 version.
3:11 Narrator: Towel on the passenger seat, blanket over the console, so a slipped screwdriver lands soft.
3:19 Narrator: Draw your dash on paper and tape each screw where it came out, and photograph every plug before unplugging it.
3:28 Narrator: You'll want plastic trim tools, a Phillips screwdriver, a spanner for the battery clamp, tape and cable ties. For a camera, add a test light or meter, and a few T-splices: little clip-on joiners that tap a wire without cutting it.
3:45 Narrator: Why plastic tools? A metal screwdriver dents and scratches the soft dash plastic, and those marks stay forever.
3:55 Narrator: Last, try the old system once: radio, wheel buttons, fan, hazards, the lock button and the reversing beepers, so you know what worked before.
4:09 Narrator: Battery next. Handbrake on, everything off, then undo only the negative terminal, marked minus. Go by the mark, not the cable colour.
4:21 Narrator: A little box on that clamp? That's a battery sensor. Loosen the clamp nut, not the sensor bolt, or you can damage the sensor and the post, and lift both off together.
4:34 Narrator: Tuck the clamp in a cloth so it can't spring back. Got a second battery? Undo that one too, because it can still feed power to the dash.
4:45 Viewer: Do I really have to? It's only the radio.
4:50 Narrator: Fair question. Battery on, one bare pin touching metal can blow a fuse or damage the harness. Two minutes with a spanner buys a relaxed afternoon.
5:05 Narrator: Now the good bit. On a PX1, the whole centre surround comes off in one piece: top screen hood, radio buttons and air con panel together. No screws, just clips.
5:19 Narrator: Start at the bottom: plastic tool in at both bottom corners, under the knobs, and ease the edge towards you till the clips let go.
5:30 Narrator: Then up both sides beside the vents, and last, the top of the hood. Straight towards you, never sideways, and only a hand's width for now: the air con and button panels are still plugged in behind it, on short leads, and a full pull can strain them.
5:49 Narrator: Clips like a straight pull. Twist it, and a clip tab snaps, and the new frame sits loose or rattles later.
5:59 Narrator: Behind it, the air con panel and the button panel are still plugged in. Thumb on each latch, unplug, and lay the surround face up, so no button falls out.
6:11 Narrator: Every plug the same way: press the latch, pull the plug body, never the wires. A thin wire can break inside, with no slack to fix it.
6:26 Narrator: Now you'll see two boxes: the old radio in its metal cage, and the top screen up in the hood space.
6:34 Narrator: Before the radio comes out, find your aerial plug. On some PX1s it's behind the radio, on others it comes up near the little top screen. Follow the lead with a finger, so you know which.
6:48 Narrator: Radio first: four screws, two on each side, one up high and one down low. Then slide it towards you, just a hand's width.
6:59 Narrator: Then slowly: that aerial lead is thin, with only a few centimetres of slack. If it's behind the radio, reach in, press the latch, and pull the plug, not the cable. Yank the radio out, and that lead snaps, and your radio reception's gone.
7:19 Narrator: Then the big plugs behind it, latch first, and the radio lifts out.
7:25 Narrator: Now the top screen: two screws along the top of its white bracket, reached from above. Lift it up and out, press the latch on its black plug, and pull the plug. That's your steering wheel button plug, the one from the start, so keep it in reach.
7:44 Narrator: A few small round plugs on it too? Photograph them. If one comes from your aerial, that's the one for the aerial adapter; tape the others.
7:57 Narrator: Back to that top screen choice. Leave its plug on the old screen, and that screen lights up while the wheel buttons do nothing. It's the most common PX1 question we get, and this one plug sorts it.
8:12 Narrator: Moving it, like most owners? Then the cover plate closes the top opening, from the inside: the little tab at each end lines up with a hole on the back of the frame.
8:25 Narrator: A small screw through each tab holds it: the spare screws in your kit, or any short screw that can't poke through to the front. Snug, not tight: it's soft plastic, and a hard turn cracks a tab or strips the hole.
8:42 Narrator: Do it now, on the towel, while it's easy to reach. From the front, you'll see a neat, closed shelf above your screen.
8:51 Narrator: Keeping the old screen? Then its plug stays, it goes back in its bracket, no plate, and you run the new unit by touch and voice. Later, when we move the top screen plug, you simply skip that step.
9:08 Viewer: And my air con knobs? Do I lose them?
9:13 Narrator: Not at all, they come with you. The air con panel is screwed to the back of the old surround: screws out, panel off.
9:23 Narrator: Into the new frame from behind, knobs through the openings, and line it up evenly before a single screw goes in.
9:32 Narrator: Then the screws, by hand, snug, corner to corner. Crank one down, and the frame bends, the panel sits crooked, and the gaps round the knobs won't close.
9:45 Narrator: Not flush first go? That's the classic PX1 snag. Screws out, reseat it, and try again gently; that calm second go is what got it right for owners before you.
9:58 Narrator: Now the metal clips on the old surround's edge: move every one to the matching spot on the new frame. Forget them, and the frame sits loose, and can pop out on a bumpy road.
10:12 Narrator: Your old surround has six clips; the new frame has spots for eight. Two more of the same clips, from a car parts shop, make the top sit firm, so it's best to have them ready before you start.
10:26 Narrator: The frame has its own hazard and lock buttons. The car's plug from the old buttons goes into the Brummstadt adapter, and the adapter into the new buttons.
10:38 Narrator: That plug won't slide in? Look at the car's plug: some have a small black bracket around it that gets in the way. Ease it off and try again, gently. Still no? Never trim it and never force it: a cut plug can't be undone, and it still won't fit.
10:58 Narrator: The air con panel keeps its own car plug, as before. Not into the Brummstadt harness: a plug there can look just like it, but that one's for a camera, and the air con would go quiet.
11:14 Narrator: Now the plugs. The car's radio plugs click into their partners on the Brummstadt harness, and the harness into the unit.
11:24 Narrator: And the top screen plug goes into its partner on the Brummstadt wiring, by the CAN box.
11:31 Narrator: Push till it clicks, then a gentle tug on the plug body. Half-latched works today, then shakes loose on the first corrugated road, and the screen flickers.
11:43 Narrator: Won't go together? Check the pair. Never trim, never force: a plug that truly doesn't match needs another lead, not a knife.
11:54 Narrator: The car's aerial plug goes into the Brummstadt aerial adapter, and that into the unit.
12:01 Narrator: Units change a little from batch to batch, even from what you see here, so match plugs by the names on the connection card in your box.
12:11 Narrator: That bundle of round plugs that looks spare? Its main plug goes into the unit, because the camera and mic leads hang off it. Most of its round ends stay free, unless you add something like an amplifier.
12:26 Narrator: The unit's cooling fan plug goes into its partner too, so it keeps cool in a hot cab.
12:34 Narrator: A car plug with no partner? The factory mic and GPS plugs aren't needed any more, since your unit has its own: tape and tuck them. And never join plugs just because they fit: one owner's air con went quiet that way, and came back once the plug went home where it came from.
12:57 Narrator: This little box is the translator between your Ranger and the screen. Wheel buttons and car data, like the air con readout, go through it.
13:07 Viewer: And if the screen works, but the wheel buttons do nothing?
13:12 Narrator: Two checks, and it's nearly always one of them. One: the top screen plug is on the Brummstadt wiring. Two: the CAN box's short data lead is in its own small socket on the unit.
13:27 Narrator: Plug that data lead in now, battery off. Power up without it, and the wheel buttons can stay dead until you do that bit again: battery off, lead in, battery on.
13:43 Narrator: The single yellow lead with two thin blue wires goes in, camera or not. It's the camera input, and its blue wires are the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi aerials, so keep them off metal.
13:57 Narrator: Brummstadt rear camera? It goes by the number plate or under the bumper, on its bracket. Run the lead along the car's own wiring, through a grommet, that's the rubber plug where the car's wires pass through, off sharp edges, and tied as you go. Tap here for our camera film; it walks the whole route.
14:19 Narrator: The camera's own red power wire goes to the reverse light: T-spliced to its positive wire, with black to bare metal. Meter first: twelve volts in reverse, none in park, never flashing.
14:33 Narrator: Hit the blinker wire, and the screen jumps to the camera every time you indicate. The meter takes a minute, and saves opening the dash again.
14:45 Narrator: At the dash, the camera's yellow plug goes into that single yellow lead with the blue wires, not the socket marked VIDEO IN, where the screen stays black.
14:56 Narrator: Then a different red: the thin red wire on that yellow lead. It goes to the third wire from the top left of the main power plug, pink on some units, brown and tagged Back on others. It tells the screen you're in reverse.
15:13 Narrator: Factory camera in your rear-view mirror? It keeps its own wiring to the mirror; the Brummstadt camera is the one for your screen.
15:22 Narrator: A front camera goes in the grille, into its own white socket, the fifth on the loom, as your card shows, with Double recording on, the setting for two cameras.
15:34 Narrator: Now the mic. The built-in one sits low in the dash, close to the car noise; the external mic goes up near your mouth, so callers hear you, not the road. It plugs into the black lead marked MIC on that round-plug bundle, pushed right home.
15:53 Narrator: A good PX1 spot: on top of the steering column cover, facing you, like in this Ranger, the lead behind the cover, never wrapped round the column. Or up by the sun visor, the lead behind the rubber door seal, and the pillar trim left on: there's a curtain airbag behind it.
16:12 Narrator: Then select External Mic in the settings. That sorted the calls for many of our customers, a PX1 owner among them. The old roof mic isn't used. Tap here for our microphone film.
16:26 Narrator: The GPS aerial goes under the plastic dash top, never on metal, because metal blocks the satellites.
16:34 Narrator: Two USB leads, two jobs: four-pin for your phone and update sticks, six-pin for DAB plus or tyre sensors. Run the phone one somewhere handy, like the glovebox, clear of the hinge.
16:49 Narrator: Data cable, not charge-only. Phone charging, but no CarPlay? That's the classic sign, so try another cable first. Tap here for our phone film.
17:02 Narrator: Factory USB socket in the console? It only keeps working with a short adapter lead, the USB retention lead, which comes in some kits. Without one, the Brummstadt USB leads take over.
17:15 Narrator: Ordered DAB plus? Strip aerial on the passenger side of the windscreen, lead into the six-pin USB.
17:28 Narrator: Before anything goes back, wake it up. Rest the frame on the blanket over the console, everything plugged in, so nothing hangs on its wires. Negative on, nut snug, ignition on, and there's the Brummstadt logo.
17:43 Narrator: Screen stays black? Battery off, and check the main power plug and the plugs at the unit. A plug that's not quite clicked is suspect number one.
17:55 Narrator: A plug ever hot, smoking or smelling of burning? Ignition off, battery off. Left powered, it can melt its wires.
18:07 Narrator: The CAN box usually arrives set up. To check, tap My Car, then Diagnosis, then Car, then pick the name on your box's label, then Ford, then Ranger.
18:20 Narrator: That label is your source. A profile from a forum or a mate's car may suit another box, and then the buttons do odd things.
18:33 Narrator: Now turn an air con knob: a climate bar slides in along the bottom of your Brummstadt screen, with temperature and fan.
18:41 Narrator: Dual-zone, and the sides look swapped? My Car, Settings, AC setting, and switch Air temp reverse. Tap here for our PX1 climate film.
18:54 Narrator: Open a door, and the screen shows which one. Wrong side? My Car, Door Window Settings, F Door exchange.
19:04 Narrator: Camera format: in reverse, foot on the brake, hold your finger on the picture until a box pops up, and pick the format called AHD 1080P, 25 Hz, for our camera.
19:18 Narrator: Still no signal? First check that thin red wire and the yellow plug from before. Then try AHD 720P, 25 Hz. One camera only? Double recording stays off. And always tap Save, or the change is lost.
19:36 Narrator: Picture back to front? That one's in the other settings app, Car Settings: General, then Reverse Mirror. Upside down? Turn the camera on its bracket; no setting fixes that.
19:51 Narrator: Your phone: open the app called ZLINK, for CarPlay and Android Auto, then plug in, or pair over Bluetooth for wireless.
20:01 Narrator: The clock lived on the little top screen. Now it's on your Brummstadt screen, so set the time there.
20:08 Narrator: When it all works, photograph each settings screen, to set it back after a reset or update.
20:17 Narrator: Engine off, the unit runs on the battery alone. One owner downloaded offline maps for hours in the driveway, and their Ranger wouldn't start.
20:28 Narrator: So keep setup short, and do big downloads and updates with the engine running outdoors, never in a closed garage, because exhaust fumes build up in there, or on a charger. Caught out? A proper charge or a jump start sorts it. Tap here for our update film.
20:50 Viewer: It plays music! Can I close it up now?
20:55 Narrator: Nearly. Ten minutes of testing first: a tweak takes seconds with the dash open, and an evening once it's closed.
21:04 Narrator: Touch screen, every speaker with balance and fade, and a radio station you know.
21:11 Narrator: Station plays a few seconds, then hops off? Switch off AF, the setting that hunts for a stronger signal.
21:20 Narrator: Stations fuzzy, or only half of them? Battery off, and fit the little booster from your kit between the aerial and the unit, its blue wire to the blue aerial power wire on the harness.
21:34 Narrator: Steering wheel: volume up and down, and the track buttons, left and right.
21:41 Narrator: The centre voice button and answering calls from the wheel don't carry over on the PX1; that's normal with this kit. Answer on the screen, and Hey Siri or Hey Google does the rest.
21:54 Narrator: A real call, both ways, and a whole voice command, not just the wake word.
22:02 Narrator: Foot on the brake, select reverse: the camera comes up, and the reversing beepers beep as before. Out of reverse, your normal screen's back.
22:13 Narrator: Indicators, left then right: the screen should stay put. Jumps to the camera? The camera's red power wire is on the indicator wire, so move it to the reverse light. No side cameras, and it still jumps? In My Car, Settings, Fullview Sight, switch off the side camera switches.
22:34 Narrator: Hazards flashing outside, the button springs back; then the lock button: lock, unlock.
22:42 Narrator: Then the air con: fan, temperature, face, feet, windscreen, demister, and the climate bar following along.
22:52 Narrator: Ignition off and on again: your settings should still be there.
22:58 Narrator: Something not working? Battery off, back through the plugs one by one: it's nearly always a plug or a setting. The Reset app, and the little RST hole at the top left of the screen, just restart the unit. Factory Reset wipes your settings and ZLINK, so never first.
23:21 Narrator: All working? Lovely. Ignition off, battery off, then close up, so nothing's live while leads move.
23:31 Narrator: Cable-tie the long leads together and to the car's wiring, and tie the CAN box down. Loose leads rattle, and an edge can rub through: power hits metal, a short, a blown fuse or worse.
23:46 Narrator: Booster and spare loops beside the unit, not behind, so the frame goes all the way home.
23:54 Narrator: Now the frame, with the screen on it, goes in as one piece. Feed the harness in as it goes, every lead clear of clip holes and sharp edges.
24:05 Narrator: Top edge in first, then press the bottom home, clip by clip, with the flat of your hand.
24:13 Narrator: Won't sit flat? Something's caught. Don't thump it; a trapped lead gets crushed. Lift it, free the lead, and it sits flat.
24:24 Narrator: Run a finger round the edge. A hair's gap can be normal, as Ford dashes vary a little. One corner standing proud is a clip not home, so press it in.
24:37 Narrator: Battery on. Last round: hazards, lock, air con, wheel buttons, sound, camera, and the buttons right beside the frame should click freely. Pressing the frame in can nudge a plug, so this round counts.
24:53 Narrator: The battery was off, so if your driver's window has one-touch, reteach it: run it fully up, hold the switch a second or two longer, then check one touch down and up.
25:08 Narrator: That's it: a Brummstadt screen in your PX1, fitted by you. The kettle's cold, but you've earned a fresh cup.
25:17 Narrator: Everything here came from our installs, our installers and many PX1 owners. Every story made this film better.
25:26 Narrator: Extra tip: after the battery's been off, an automatic may shift a little differently for the first few drives while it relearns. That's normal.
25:36 Narrator: And keep the connection card and your settings photos in the glovebox. On a road trip, that's your manual.
25:44 Narrator: Still got a question, or an idea for your Ranger? Ask your installer, or best of all, have a yarn with us at Brummstadt; we work with these units every day. A plug that won't match, or a frame that won't sit flush, we sort out with you, and a quick photo gets us there in one go.
26:04 Narrator: We want every owner to get it right first go; that's why our films go this deep. Spot something missing? Leave a comment wherever you're watching. We read every one and improve the guides. You're with the experts, and you're part of it.
26:20 Narrator: Now, a small favour. Before you bought, you probably read a few reviews. Somebody's five stars helped you decide.
26:29 Narrator: Still deciding? Good on you, you'll love it. Just fitted it, and it saved you a support message and an afternoon? Or someone at Brummstadt helped you along? Then you're probably thinking: they've earned their five stars. Name your helper too. They'll be chuffed.
26:46 Narrator: It's one click on the review button right here, quicker than fishing a dropped screw out from under the seat, and it tells the next PX1 owner they're in good hands. Enjoy the drive.

If you have still got a question about your Ranger, ask us at Brummstadt. We sell these kits and work with them every day.